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Summary of Significant Accounting Policies
12 Months Ended
Jan. 29, 2022
Accounting Policies [Abstract]  
Summary of Significant Accounting Policies

Note 1

Summary of Significant Accounting Policies

Nature of Operations

Genesco Inc. and its subsidiaries business includes the sourcing and design, marketing and distribution of footwear and accessories through retail stores in the U.S., Puerto Rico and Canada primarily under the Journeys®, Journeys Kidz®, Little Burgundy® and Johnston & Murphy® banners and under the Schuh banner in the U.K. and the ROI; through catalogs and e-commerce websites including the following: journeys.com, journeyskidz.com, journeys.ca, schuh.co.uk, schuh.ie, schuh.eu, littleburgundyshoes.com, johnstonmurphy.com, johnstonmurphy.ca, nashvilleshoewarehouse.com and dockersshoes.com and at wholesale, primarily under our Johnston & Murphy brand, the licensed Dockers® brand, the licensed Levi's® brand, the licensed G.H. Bass® brand and other brands that we license for footwear. At January 29, 2022, we operated 1,425 retail stores in the U.S., Puerto Rico, Canada, the U.K. and the ROI.

During Fiscal 2022, we operated four reportable business segments (not including corporate): (i) Journeys Group, comprised of the Journeys, Journeys Kidz and Little Burgundy retail footwear chains and e-commerce operations; (ii) Schuh Group, comprised of the Schuh retail footwear chain and e-commerce operations; (iii) Johnston & Murphy Group, comprised of Johnston & Murphy retail operations, e-commerce operations and wholesale distribution of products under the Johnston & Murphy brand; and (iv) Licensed Brands, comprised of the licensed Dockers, Levi's, and G.H. Bass brands, as well as other brands we license for footwear.

Principles of Consolidation

All subsidiaries are consolidated in our Consolidated Financial Statements. All significant intercompany transactions and accounts have been eliminated.

Fiscal Year

Our fiscal year ends on the Saturday closest to January 31. As a result, Fiscal 2022, 2021 and 2020 were all 52-week years with 364 days. Fiscal 2022 ended on January 29, 2022, Fiscal 2021 ended on January 30, 2021 and Fiscal 2020 ended on February 1, 2020.

Use of Estimates

The preparation of financial statements in conformity with U.S. generally accepted accounting principles (GAAP) requires management to make estimates and assumptions that affect the reported amounts of assets and liabilities and disclosure of contingent assets and liabilities at the date of the financial statements and the reported amounts of revenues and expenses during the reporting period. Actual results could differ from those estimates.

Cash and Cash Equivalents

Our foreign subsidiaries held cash of approximately $39.7 million and $21.8 million as of January 29, 2022 and January 30, 2021, respectively, which is included in cash and cash equivalents on the Consolidated Balance Sheets. Our strategic plan does not require the repatriation of foreign cash in order to fund our operations in the U.S., and it is our current intention to indefinitely reinvest our foreign cash and cash equivalents outside of the U.S. If we were to repatriate foreign cash to the U.S., we would be required to accrue and pay U.S. taxes in accordance with applicable U.S. tax rules and regulations as a result of the repatriation.

Note 1

Summary of Significant Accounting Policies, Continued

There were no cash equivalents at January 29, 2022 or January 30, 2021.

At January 29, 2022 and January 30, 2021, outstanding checks drawn on zero-balance accounts at certain domestic banks exceeded book cash balances at those banks by approximately $0.0 million and $0.5 million, respectively. These amounts are included in accounts payable in our Consolidated Balance Sheets.

Concentration of Credit Risk and Allowances on Accounts Receivable

Our wholesale businesses sell primarily to independent retailers and department stores across the United States. Receivables arising from these sales are not collateralized. Customer credit risk is affected by conditions or occurrences within the economy and the retail industry as well as by customer specific factors. In the wholesale businesses, one customer accounted for 38%, one customer accounted for 13% and one customer accounted for 7% of our total trade receivables balance, while no other customer accounted for more than 6% of our total trade receivables balance as of January 29, 2022.

We establish an allowance for doubtful accounts based upon factors surrounding the credit risk of specific customers, historical trends and other information, as well as customer specific factors. We also establish allowances for sales returns, customer deductions and co-op advertising based on specific circumstances, historical trends and projected probable outcomes.

Inventory Valuation

In our footwear wholesale operations and our Schuh Group segment, cost for inventory that we own is determined using the first-in, first-out ("FIFO") method. Net realizable value is determined using a system of analysis which evaluates inventory at the stock number level based on factors such as inventory turn, average selling price, inventory level, and selling prices reflected in future orders for footwear wholesale. We provide a valuation allowance when the inventory has not been marked down to net realizable value based on current selling prices or when the inventory is not turning and is not expected to turn at satisfactory levels.

In our retail operations, other than the Schuh Group segment, we employ the retail inventory method, applying average cost-to-retail ratios to the retail value of inventories. Under the retail inventory method, valuing inventory at the lower of cost or market is achieved as markdowns are taken or accrued as a reduction of the retail value of inventories.

Inherent in the retail inventory method are subjective judgments and estimates, including merchandise mark-on, markups, markdowns and shrinkage. These judgments and estimates, coupled with the fact that the retail inventory method is an averaging process, could produce a range of cost figures. To reduce the risk of inaccuracy and to ensure consistent presentation, we employ the retail inventory method in multiple subclasses of inventory with similar gross margins, and analyze markdown requirements at the stock number level based on factors such as inventory turn, average selling price and inventory age. In addition, we accrue markdowns as necessary. These additional markdown accruals reflect all of the above factors as well as current agreements to return products to vendors and vendor agreements to provide markdown support. In addition to markdown allowances, we maintain reserves for shrinkage and damaged goods based on historical rates.

Inherent in the analysis of both wholesale and retail inventory valuation are subjective judgments about current market conditions, fashion trends and overall economic conditions. Failure to make appropriate conclusions regarding these factors may result in an overstatement or understatement of inventory value.

Note 1

Summary of Significant Accounting Policies, Continued

Property and Equipment

Property and equipment are recorded at cost and depreciated or amortized over the estimated useful life of related assets. Depreciation and amortization expense are computed principally by the straight-line method over the following estimated useful lives:

 

Buildings and building equipment

20-45 years

Computer hardware, software and equipment

3-10 years

Furniture and fixtures

10 years

 

Depreciation expense related to property and equipment was approximately $42.4 million, $45.6 million and $49.4 million for Fiscal 2022, 2021 and 2020, respectively.

Leases

We recognize lease assets and corresponding lease liabilities for all operating leases on the Consolidated Balance Sheets as described under ASC 842. We evaluate renewal options and break options at lease inception and on an ongoing basis and include renewal options and break options that we are reasonably certain to exercise in our expected lease terms for calculations of the right-of-use assets and liabilities. Approximately 2% of our leases contain renewal options. To determine the present value of lease payments not yet paid, we estimate incremental borrowing rates corresponding to the reasonably certain lease term. As most of our leases do not provide a determinable implicit rate, we estimate our collateralized incremental borrowing rate based upon a synthetic credit rating and yield curve analysis at the lease commencement or modification date in determining the present value of lease payments. For lease payments in foreign currencies, the incremental borrowing rate is adjusted to be reflective of the risk associated with the respective currency. Operating lease assets represent our right to use an underlying asset and are based upon the operating lease liabilities adjusted for prepayments or accrued lease payments, initial direct costs, lease incentives, and impairment, if any, of operating lease assets. We test right-of-use assets for impairment in the same manner as long-lived assets.

Net lease costs are included within selling and administrative expenses on the Consolidated Statements of Operations.

Asset Retirement Obligations

An asset retirement obligation represents a legal obligation associated with the retirement of a tangible long-lived asset that is incurred upon the acquisition, construction, development, or normal operation of that long-lived asset. Our asset retirement obligations are primarily associated with leasehold improvements that we are contractually obligated to remove at the end of a lease to comply with the lease agreement. We recognize asset retirement obligations at the inception of a lease with such conditions if a reasonable estimate of fair value can be made. Asset retirement obligations are recorded in other long-term liabilities in our Consolidated Balance Sheets and are subsequently adjusted for changes in estimated asset retirement obligations. The associated estimated asset retirement costs are capitalized as part of the carrying amount of the long-lived asset and depreciated over its useful life.

Our Consolidated Balance Sheets include asset retirement obligations related to leases of $11.5 million as of both January 29, 2022 and January 30, 2021.

Note 1

Summary of Significant Accounting Policies, Continued

Impairment of Long-Lived Assets

We periodically assess the realizability of our long-lived assets, other than goodwill, and evaluate such assets for impairment whenever events or changes in circumstances indicate that the carrying amount of an asset may not be recoverable. Asset impairment is determined to exist if estimated future cash flows, undiscounted and without interest charges, are less than the carrying amount. Inherent in the analysis of impairment are subjective judgments about future cash flows. Failure to make appropriate conclusions regarding these judgments may result in an overstatement or understatement of the value of long-lived assets.

We annually assess our goodwill and indefinite lived trade names for impairment and on an interim basis if indicators of impairment are present. Our annual assessment date of goodwill and indefinite lived trade names is the first day of the fourth quarter.

In accordance with ASC 350, we have the option first to assess qualitative factors to determine whether events and circumstances indicate that it is more likely than not that goodwill is impaired. If, after such assessment, we conclude that the asset is not impaired, no further action is required. However, if we conclude otherwise, we are required to determine the fair value of the asset using a quantitative impairment test. The quantitative impairment test for goodwill compares the fair value of each reporting unit with the carrying value of the reporting unit with which the goodwill is associated. If the fair value of the reporting unit is less than the carrying value of the reporting unit, an impairment charge would be recorded for the amount, if any, in which the carrying value exceeds the reporting unit's fair value. We estimate fair value using the best information available, and compute the fair value derived by a combination of the market and income approach. The market approach is based on observed market data of comparable companies to determine fair value. The income approach utilizes a projection of a reporting unit’s estimated operating results and cash flows that are discounted using a weighted-average cost of capital that reflects current market conditions. A key assumption in our fair value estimate is the weighted average cost of capital utilized for discounting our cash flow projections in our income approach. The projection uses our best estimates of economic and market conditions over the projected period including growth rates in sales, costs, estimates of future expected changes in operating margins and cash expenditures. Other significant estimates and assumptions include terminal value growth rates, future estimates of capital expenditures and changes in future working capital requirements.

Fair Value

The Fair Value Measurements and Disclosures Topic of the Codification defines fair value, establishes a framework for measuring fair value in accordance with generally accepted accounting principles and expands disclosures about fair value measurements. This Topic defines fair value as the exchange price that would be received for an asset or paid to transfer a liability (an exit price) in the principal or most advantageous market for the asset or liability in an orderly transaction between market participants on the measurement date. It also establishes a fair value hierarchy which requires an entity to maximize the use of observable inputs and minimize the use of unobservable inputs when measuring fair value. The standard describes three levels of inputs that may be used to measure fair value:

Note 1

Summary of Significant Accounting Policies, Continued

Level 1 - Quoted prices in active markets for identical assets or liabilities.

Level 2 - Observable inputs other than Level 1 prices such as quoted prices for similar assets or liabilities; quoted prices in markets that are not active; or other inputs that are observable or can be corroborated by observable market data for substantially the full term of the assets or liabilities.

Level 3 - Unobservable inputs that are supported by little or no market activity and that are significant to the fair value of the assets or liabilities.

A financial asset or liability’s classification within the hierarchy is determined based on the lowest level input that is significant to the fair value measurement.

Revenue Recognition

Revenue is recognized upon satisfaction of all contractual performance obligations and transfer of control to the customer. Revenue is measured as the amount of consideration we expect to be entitled to in exchange for corresponding goods. The majority of our sales are single performance obligation arrangements for retail sale transactions for which the transaction price is equivalent to the stated price of the product, net of any stated discounts applicable at a point in time. Each sales transaction results in an implicit contract with the customer to deliver a product at the point of sale. Revenue from retail sales is recognized at the point of sale, is net of estimated returns, and excludes sales and value added taxes. Revenue from catalog and internet sales is recognized at estimated time of delivery to the customer, is net of estimated returns, and excludes sales and value added taxes. Wholesale revenue is recorded net of estimated returns and allowances for markdowns, damages and miscellaneous claims when the related goods have been shipped and legal title has passed to the customer. Actual amounts of markdowns have not differed materially from estimates. Shipping and handling costs charged to customers are included in net sales. We exclude sales and value added tax collected on behalf of third parties from transaction price.

A provision for estimated returns is provided through a reduction of sales and cost of goods sold in the period that the related sales are recorded. Estimated returns are based on historical returns and claims. Actual returns and claims in any future period may differ from historical experience. Revenue from gift cards is deferred and recognized upon the redemption of the cards. These cards have no expiration date. Income from unredeemed cards is recognized on the Consolidated Statements of Operations within net sales in proportion to the pattern of rights exercised by the customer in future periods. We perform an evaluation of historical redemption patterns from the date of original issuance to estimate future period redemption activity.

Our Consolidated Balance Sheets include an accrued liability for gift cards of $6.3 million and $5.0 million as of January 29, 2022 and January 30, 2021, respectively. Gift card breakage recognized as revenue was $1.0 million, $0.8 million and $1.0 million for Fiscal 2022, 2021 and 2020, respectively. During Fiscal 2022, we recognized $3.1 million of gift card redemptions and gift card breakage revenue that were included in the gift card liability as of January 30, 2021.

Note 1

Summary of Significant Accounting Policies, Continued

Cost of Sales

For our retail operations, the cost of sales includes actual product cost, the cost of transportation to our warehouses from suppliers, the cost of transportation from our warehouses to the stores and the cost of transportation from our warehouses to the customer. Additionally, the cost of our distribution facilities allocated to our retail operations is included in cost of sales.

For our wholesale operations, the cost of sales includes the actual product cost and the cost of transportation to the Company’s warehouses from suppliers.

Selling and Administrative Expenses

Selling and administrative expenses include all operating costs excluding (i) those related to the transportation of products from the supplier to the warehouse, (ii) for our retail operations, those related to the transportation of products from the warehouse to the store and from the warehouse to the customer and (iii) costs of our distribution facilities which are allocated to our retail operations. Wholesale costs of distribution are included in selling and administrative expenses on our Consolidated Statements of Operations in the amounts of $12.8 million, $10.1 million and $5.6 million for Fiscal 2022, 2021 and 2020, respectively.

We record buying, merchandising and occupancy costs in selling and administrative expense. Because we do not include these costs in cost of sales, our gross margin may not be comparable to other retailers that include these costs in the calculation of gross margin. Retail occupancy costs recorded in selling and administrative expense were $299.6 million, $269.8 million and $334.4 million for Fiscal 2022, 2021 and 2020, respectively.

Shipping and Handling Costs

Shipping and handling costs related to inventory purchased from suppliers are included in the cost of inventory and are charged to cost of sales in the period that the inventory is sold. All other shipping and handling costs are charged to cost of sales in the period incurred except for wholesale costs of distribution and shipping costs for product shipped from stores, which are included in selling and administrative expenses in our Consolidated Statements of Operations.

Advertising Costs

Advertising costs are predominantly expensed as incurred. Advertising costs were $106.4 million, $80.1 million and $72.3 million for Fiscal 2022, 2021 and 2020, respectively.

Consideration to Resellers

In our wholesale businesses, we do not have any written buy-down programs with retailers, but we have provided certain retailers with markdown allowances for obsolete and slow-moving products that are in the retailer’s inventory. We estimate these allowances and provide for them as reductions to revenues at the time revenues are recorded. Markdowns are negotiated with retailers and changes are made to the estimates as agreements are reached. Actual amounts for markdowns have not differed materially from estimates.

Note 1

Summary of Significant Accounting Policies, Continued

Cooperative Advertising

Cooperative advertising funds are made available to most of our wholesale footwear customers. In order for retailers to receive reimbursement under such programs, the retailer must meet specified advertising guidelines and provide appropriate documentation of expenses to be reimbursed. Our cooperative advertising agreements require that wholesale customers present documentation or other evidence of specific advertisements or display materials used for our products by submitting the actual print advertisements presented in catalogs, newspaper inserts or other advertising circulars, or by permitting physical inspection of displays. Additionally, our cooperative advertising agreements require that the amount of reimbursement requested for such advertising or materials be supported by invoices or other evidence of the actual costs incurred by the retailer.

Vendor Allowances

From time to time, we negotiate allowances from our vendors for markdowns taken or expected to be taken. These markdowns are typically negotiated on specific merchandise and for specific amounts. These specific allowances are recognized as a reduction in cost of sales in the period in which the markdowns are taken. Markdown allowances not attached to specific inventory on hand or already sold are applied to concurrent or future purchases from each respective vendor.

We receive support from some of our vendors in the form of reimbursements for cooperative advertising and catalog costs for the launch and promotion of certain products. The reimbursements are agreed upon with vendors and represent specific, incremental, identifiable costs incurred by us to sell the vendor’s specific products. Such costs and the related reimbursements are accumulated and monitored on an individual vendor basis, pursuant to the respective cooperative advertising agreements with vendors. Such cooperative advertising reimbursements are recorded as a reduction of selling and administrative expenses in the same period in which the associated expense is incurred. If the amount of cash consideration received exceeds the costs being reimbursed, such excess amount would be recorded as a reduction of cost of sales.

Vendor reimbursements of cooperative advertising costs recognized as a reduction of selling and administrative expenses were $10.7 million, $6.2 million and $9.1 million for Fiscal 2022, 2021 and 2020, respectively. During Fiscal 2022, 2021 and 2020, our vendor reimbursements of cooperative advertising received were not in excess of the costs incurred.

Foreign Currency Translation

The functional currency of our foreign operations is the applicable local currency. The translation of the applicable foreign currency into U.S. dollars is performed for balance sheet accounts using current exchange rates in effect at the balance sheet date. Income and expense accounts are translated at monthly average exchange rates. The unearned gains and losses resulting from such translation are included as a separate component of accumulated other comprehensive loss within shareholders' equity. Gains and losses from certain foreign currency transactions were not material for Fiscal 2022, 2021 and 2020.

Commitments

As a result of the Togast acquisition, we also have a commitment to Samsung C&T America, Inc. (“Samsung”) related to the ultimate sale and valuation of related inventories owned by Samsung. If the product is sold below Samsung’s cost, we are committed to Samsung for the difference between the sales price and its cost. At January 29, 2022, the related inventory owned by Samsung had a historical cost of $11.4 million. As of January 29, 2022, we believe that we have appropriately accounted for any differences between the fair value of the Samsung inventory and Samsung’s historical cost.