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UNITED STATES
SECURITIES AND EXCHANGE COMMISSION
Washington, D.C. 20549
FORM 10-K
(Mark One)
| | | | | |
☒ | ANNUAL REPORT PURSUANT TO SECTION 13 OR 15(d) OF THE SECURITIES EXCHANGE ACT OF 1934 |
| For the fiscal year ended June 30, 2024 |
OR |
☐ | TRANSITION REPORT PURSUANT TO SECTION 13 OR 15(d) OF THE SECURITIES EXCHANGE ACT OF 1934 |
| For the transition period from to |
Commission file number 1-14064
The Estée Lauder Companies Inc.
(Exact name of registrant as specified in its charter)
| | | | | |
Delaware | 11-2408943 |
(State or other jurisdiction of incorporation or organization) | (I.R.S. Employer Identification No.) |
| |
767 Fifth Avenue, New York, New York | 10153 |
(Address of principal executive offices) | (Zip Code) |
Registrant’s telephone number, including area code 212-572-4200
Securities registered pursuant to Section 12(b) of the Act:
| | | | | | | | |
Title of each class | Trading Symbol(s) | Name of each exchange on which registered |
Class A Common Stock, $.01 par value | EL | New York Stock Exchange |
Securities registered pursuant to Section 12(g) of the Act:
None
Indicate by check mark if the registrant is a well-known seasoned issuer, as defined in Rule 405 of the Securities Act. Yes ☒ No ☐
Indicate by check mark if the registrant is not required to file reports pursuant to Section 13 or Section 15(d) of the Act. Yes ☐ No ☒
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant (1) has filed all reports required to be filed by Section 13 or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934 during the preceding 12 months (or for such shorter period that the registrant was required to file such reports), and (2) has been subject to such filing requirements for the past 90 days. Yes ☒ No ☐
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant has submitted electronically every Interactive Data File required to be submitted pursuant to Rule 405 of Regulation S-T (§232.405 of this chapter) during the preceding 12 months (or for such shorter period that the registrant was required to submit and post such files). Yes ☒ No ☐
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant is a large accelerated filer, an accelerated filer, a non-accelerated filer, a smaller reporting company, or an emerging growth company. See the definitions of “large accelerated filer,” “accelerated filer,” “smaller reporting company,” and “emerging growth company” in Rule 12b-2 of the Exchange Act.
| | | | | | | | |
Large accelerated filer ☒ | Accelerated filer ☐ | |
Non-accelerated filer ☐ | Smaller reporting company ☐ | Emerging growth company ☐ |
If an emerging growth company, indicate by check mark if the registrant has elected not to use the extended transition period for complying with any new or revised financial accounting standards provided pursuant to Section 13(a) of the Exchange Act. ☐
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant has filed a report on and attestation to its management’s assessment of the effectiveness of its internal control over financial reporting under Section 404(b) of the Sarbanes-Oxley Act (15 U.S.C. 7262(b)) by the registered public accounting firm that prepared or issued its audit report. ☒
If securities are registered pursuant to Section 12(b) of the Act, indicate by check mark whether the financial statements of the registrant included in the filing reflect the correction of an error to previously issued financial statements. ☒
Indicate by check mark whether any of those error corrections are restatements that required a recovery analysis of incentive-based compensation received by any of the registrant’s executive officers during the relevant recovery period pursuant to §240.10D-1(b). ☐
Indicate by check mark whether the registrant is a shell company (as defined in Rule 12b-2 of the Exchange Act). Yes ☐ No ☒
The aggregate market value of the registrant’s voting common equity held by non-affiliates of the registrant was approximately $34 billion at December 29, 2023 (the last business day of the registrant’s most recently completed second quarter).*
At August 12, 2024, 233,177,155 shares of the registrant’s Class A Common Stock, $.01 par value, and 125,542,029 shares of the registrant’s Class B Common Stock, $.01 par value, were outstanding.
Documents Incorporated by Reference
| | | | | | | | |
Document | | Where Incorporated |
Proxy Statement for Annual Meeting of Stockholders to be held November 8, 2024 | | Part III |
* Calculated by excluding all shares held by executive officers and directors of registrant and certain trusts without conceding that all such persons are “affiliates” of registrant for purposes of the Federal securities laws.
THE ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES INC.
INDEX TO ANNUAL REPORT ON FORM 10-K
Cautionary Note Regarding Forward-Looking Information and Risk Factors
This Annual Report on Form 10-K includes “forward-looking statements” within the meaning of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995. Such statements may address our expectations regarding sales, earnings or other future financial performance and liquidity, other performance measures, product introductions, entry into new geographic regions, information technology initiatives, new methods of sale, our long-term strategy, restructuring and other charges and resulting cost savings, and future operations or operating results. Although we believe our expectations are based on reasonable assumptions within the bounds of our knowledge of our business and operations, we cannot assure that actual results will not differ materially from our expectations. Factors that could cause actual results to differ from expectations are described herein; in particular, see “Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations – Cautionary Note Regarding Forward-Looking Information.” In addition, there is a discussion of risks associated with an investment in our securities, see “Item 1A. Risk Factors.”
Unless the context requires otherwise, references to “we,” “us,” “our” and the “Company” refer to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. and its subsidiaries.
PART I
Item 1. Business.
The Estée Lauder Companies Inc., founded in 1946 by Estée and Joseph Lauder, is one of the world’s leading manufacturers, marketers and sellers of quality skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care products, and is a steward of luxury and prestige brands globally. Our products are sold in approximately 150 countries and territories under a number of well-known brand names including: Estée Lauder, Clinique, Origins, M·A·C, Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, La Mer, Aveda, Jo Malone London, TOM FORD, Too Faced, Dr.Jart+, and The Ordinary. We are also the global licensee of the AERIN, BALMAIN and Dr. Andrew Weil brand names for fragrances and cosmetics. Each brand is distinctly positioned within the market for cosmetics and other beauty products.
We believe we are a leader in the beauty industry due to the global recognition of our brand names, our excellence in product innovation, our strong position in key geographic markets and the consistently high quality of our products and “High-Touch” services. We sell our prestige products through distribution channels that complement the luxury image and prestige status of our brands, and we provide “High-Touch” consumer experiences across our distribution channels. Our products are sold on our own and authorized retailer websites, on third-party online malls, in stores in airports, in duty-free locations and in our own and authorized freestanding stores. In addition, our products are sold in brick-and-mortar retail stores, including department stores, specialty-multi retailers, upscale perfumeries and pharmacies and top-tier salons and spas.
We have been controlled by the Lauder family since the founding of our Company. Members of the Lauder family, some of whom are directors, executive officers and/or employees, beneficially own, directly or indirectly, as of August 12, 2024, shares of our Company's Class A Common Stock and Class B Common Stock having approximately 84% of the outstanding voting power of the Common Stock.
Products
Skin Care - Our broad range of skin care products address various skin care needs. These products include moisturizers, serums, cleansers, toners, body care, exfoliators, acne and oil correctors, facial masks and sun care products.
Makeup - Our full array of makeup products includes lipsticks, lip glosses, mascaras, foundations, eyeshadows and powders. Many of the products are offered in an extensive palette of shades and colors. We also sell related items such as compacts, brushes and other makeup tools.
Fragrance - We offer a variety of fragrance products. The fragrances are sold in various forms, including eau de parfum sprays and colognes, as well as lotions, powders, creams, candles and soaps that are based on a particular fragrance.
Hair Care - Our hair care products include shampoos, conditioners, styling products, treatment, finishing sprays and hair color products.
Other - We also sell ancillary products and services that do not fit the definition of skin care, makeup, fragrance, and hair care. The other category also includes royalty revenue from our licensing of the TOM FORD trademark to third parties since our fiscal 2023 acquisition of the TOM FORD brand.
Our Brands
Given the personal nature of our products and the wide array of consumer preferences and tastes, as well as competition for the attention of consumers, our strategy has been to market and promote our products through distinctive brands seeking to address broad preferences and tastes. Each brand has a single global image that is promoted with consistent logos, packaging and advertising designed to enhance its image and differentiate it from other brands in the market. Beauty brands are differentiated by numerous factors, including quality, performance, a particular lifestyle, where they are distributed (e.g., prestige or mass) and price point. Below is a chart showing the brands we sell and how we view them based on lifestyle and price point:
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| | Estée Lauder brand products, which have been sold since 1946, have a reputation for innovation, sophistication and superior quality. Estée Lauder is one of the world’s most renowned beauty brands, producing iconic skin care, makeup and fragrances. |
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| | We pioneered the marketing of prestige men’s fragrance, grooming and skin care products with the introduction of Aramis products in 1964. |
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| | Introduced in 1968, Clinique skin care and makeup products are all allergy tested and 100% fragrance free and have been designed to address individual skin types and needs. Clinique also offers select fragrances. The skin care and makeup products are based on the research and related expertise of leading dermatologists. |
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| | Lab Series, introduced in 1987, is a series of high performance, specialized skin care solutions uniquely created to improve the look and feel of men’s skin. |
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| | Introduced in 1990, Origins is known for high-performance natural skin care that is “powered by nature and proven by science.” The brand also sells makeup and fragrance products and is distributed primarily through online, specialty-multi and freestanding Origins stores. Origins has a license agreement to develop and sell beauty products using the name of Dr. Andrew Weil. |
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| | M·A·C, the leading brand of professional cosmetics, was created in Toronto, Canada. We completed our acquisition of M·A·C in 1998. The brand’s popularity has grown through a tradition of word-of-mouth endorsement from professional makeup artists, models, photographers and journalists around the world. |
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| | Acquired in 1995, Bobbi Brown Cosmetics is a global prestige beauty brand known for its high quality and undertone-correct makeup and skin care products that celebrate individual beauty and confidence. Reflecting its artistry roots, the brand is focused on creating a teaching and learning community of women around the world. |
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| | Acquired in 1995, La Mer is a leading global luxury skin care brand that is available in limited distribution worldwide. The brand is known for its iconic Crème de la Mer moisturizer, serums and lotions, as well as other skin care and foundation products that are created around the original “Miracle Broth.” |
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| | Acquired in 1997, Aveda sells high-performance, naturally-derived hair care products, as well as skin care, makeup and fragrance. The brand is known for its innovative plant-based products and its commitment to environmental sustainability and corporate responsibility. It is distributed primarily through top-tier hair salons and direct-to-consumer, via online and Aveda stores. |
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| | Acquired in 1999, Jo Malone London is a scented British lifestyle brand with understated elegance, offering enchanted story-telling and “High-Touch” boutique services. The brand’s famous colognes are perfect alone or artfully layered. Jo Malone London embodies the spirit of gifting generosity and inspires emotional elevation. |
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| | Acquired in 2006, Bumble and bumble is a New York-based hair care brand that creates high-quality hair care and styling products. The brand is distributed primarily through top-tier salons, including Bumble and bumble’s own flagship salons, specialty-multi retailers and online. |
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| | Acquired in 2003, Darphin is a Paris-based, prestige skin care brand known for its high-performance botanical skin care. The brand is distributed primarily through high-end independent pharmacies and online brand and retailer channels. |
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| | On April 28, 2023, we acquired the TOM FORD brand and related intellectual property. The TOM FORD brand is a luxury brand created in 2005, encompassing fashion, fragrance, eyewear and other accessories. From 2005 until the closing of the acquisition, we developed, manufactured and distributed luxury fragrances and beauty products as a licensee. As the current owner and steward of the brand, we are continuing with the beauty products and have licensed the fashion brand and operations and eyewear to third parties. Consistent with the fashion brand, our products exude seductive modern-day glamour and include luxury fragrance, color cosmetics, men’s grooming products and skin care products for discerning consumers globally. |
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| | Acquired in 2010, Smashbox Cosmetics is a Los Angeles-based, photo studio-inspired makeup brand with high performance products created for our consumers' everyday life in the spotlight. |
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| | Launched in 2012, AERIN is a luxury lifestyle beauty and fragrance brand inspired by the signature style of its founder, Aerin Lauder. |
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| | Acquired in 2014, Le Labo is a sensory and experiential lifestyle brand, deeply rooted in the craft of slow perfumery. Born in Grasse, France and raised in downtown NYC, it offers hand-crafted and personalized fragrances, as well as ‘alternative’ and genuine experiences celebrating craftsmanship. |
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| | Acquired in 2015, Les Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle is a collection of exclusive, sophisticated, ultraluxury fragrances crafted by some of the world’s most talented perfumers and published by the brand. |
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| | Acquired in 2015, GLAMGLOW started as a behind-the-scenes Hollywood secret to instant glow. The brand is known for bold, sensorial products that deliver instant results, and its unconventional philosophy that high performance skin care should also be fun and sexy. |
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| | Acquired in 2016, Kilian Paris is a prestige fragrance brand that embodies timeless sophistication and modern luxury. |
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| | Acquired in 2016, Too Faced is a serious makeup brand that knows how to have fun. The brand is unabashedly pink, pretty and feminine with a playful wink that is beloved for its high-quality formulas, cheeky product names and distinctive packaging. |
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| | Acquired in 2019, Dr.Jart+ is a Seoul-based, global skin care brand known for its innovative formulations and unique combination of dermatological science and art. |
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| | On May 31, 2024, we purchased the remaining interest in the Deciem Beauty Group Inc. ("DECIEM") after increasing our investment in 2021 to 76%. Known as “The Abnormal Beauty Company,” DECIEM is a Toronto-based, vertically integrated multi-brand beauty company rooted in a consumer-focused and functional approach. Its portfolio includes The Ordinary, an ingredient-focused brand, and NIOD, a science-driven skin care brand. |
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In fiscal 2022, we negotiated early termination agreements for our previous license agreements for the Donna Karan New York, DKNY, Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger and Ermenegildo Zegna product lines effective June 30, 2022.
From time to time, we also make minority investments in companies, mainly in the beauty industry, including through our New Incubation Ventures, the strategic early-stage investment and incubation arm of our Company. In some cases, we have acquired the remaining interests (e.g., Have & Be Co. Ltd. (i.e. Dr.Jart+) and DECIEM). We have several minority investments including a company based in India that manufactures, markets and sells Ayurvedic skin care and other products under the Forest Essentials brand name, primarily in India.
Our “Luxury Brands” are La Mer, Jo Malone London, TOM FORD, AERIN Beauty, Le Labo, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle and Kilian Paris. Our luxury portfolio also includes Estée Lauder's Re-Nutriv product franchise. Our “Large Brands” are Estée Lauder, La Mer, M·A·C and Clinique. Our “Scaling Brands” are Jo Malone London, TOM FORD, The Ordinary, Aveda, and Bobbi Brown Cosmetics. Our “Developing Brands” are Le Labo, Too Faced, Dr.Jart+, Origins, Kilian Paris, Bumble and bumble, Smashbox, Darphin Paris, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, Lab Series, and GLAMGLOW.
Social Impact and Sustainability
We continue to integrate social impact and sustainability into our strategy and business operations. Our social impact and sustainability initiatives help drive innovation, growth and efficiency across the business and within our brand portfolio. These initiatives also aim to foster employee engagement and build consumer trust and loyalty.
Areas of focus include climate and energy; packaging; sourcing; green chemistry and ingredient transparency; inclusion, diversity and equity; employee health and safety; and social investments. We have set goals or made commitments within these focus areas. For example, our goals related to climate and energy support efficiency and conservation within our facilities, internal supply chain and value chain. Certain goals are also intended to help us reduce cost and waste.
The Nominating and ESG Committee of our Board of Directors has oversight responsibility for our Company’s environmental, social and governance (“ESG”) activities and practices, including citizenship and sustainability matters. Our social impact and sustainability efforts are led by our Executive Chairman and our President and Chief Executive Officer. Other members of senior management, along with employees across the organization, help to drive our strategic initiatives concerning social impact and sustainability.
Additional information related to our social impact and sustainability matters can be found at www.elcompanies.com.
Distribution
We sell our prestige products through distribution channels that complement the luxury image and prestige status of our brands, and we provide “High-Touch” consumer experiences across our distribution channels. Our products are sold on our own and authorized retailer websites, on third-party online malls, in stores in airports, in duty-free locations and in our own and authorized freestanding stores. In addition, our products are sold in brick-and-mortar retail stores, including department stores, specialty-multi retailers, upscale perfumeries and pharmacies and top-tier salons and spas. Our general practice is to accept returns of our products from customers if properly requested and approved.
Online, we sell products from most of our brands direct-to-consumer through our brand.com sites and third-party online malls. We also sell our products wholesale to authorized retailers that resell online through retailer.com and pure-play sites. Our sites are in approximately 50 countries. While today a majority of these online sales are generated in mainland China, the United States and the United Kingdom, we continue to expand in other markets globally.
As of June 30, 2024, we operated approximately 1,600 freestanding stores. The total reflects the net impact during fiscal 2024 of lease expirations, offset by new door openings. Most freestanding stores are operated by us under a single brand name, such as M·A·C, Jo Malone London, Le Labo and Aveda. We also operate over 300 multi-branded company stores, primarily in outlet malls.
We maintain dedicated sales teams that manage our retail accounts. We have wholly-owned operations in over 50 countries through which we market, sell and distribute our products. In certain countries, we sell our products through carefully selected distributors who we believe share our commitment to protecting the image and position of our brands. For information regarding our net sales and long-lived assets by geographic region, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 24 – Segment Data and Related Information.
Our “Emerging Markets” in Europe, the Middle East & Africa are India, the Middle East, Turkey, South Africa, Central Europe, Israel, Russia and Kazakhstan; in Asia/Pacific are Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Indonesia, the Philippines and Singapore; and in The Americas are Brazil, Mexico, Chile, Colombia, Panama, Peru and Argentina.
Our “Priority Emerging Markets” in Europe, the Middle East & Africa are India, the Middle East, Turkey and South Africa; in Asia/Pacific are Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Indonesia, and the Philippines; and in The Americas are Brazil and Mexico.
Customers
Our strategy is to build strong relationships globally with select retailers, and our senior management works with executives of our major retail accounts on a regular basis in support of these relationships. We believe we are viewed as an important supplier to these customers. In addition, we connect with our consumers directly through freestanding stores, e-commerce sites and social media to build a robust omnichannel experience that allows a consumer to shop in these and other channels.
Marketing
Our strategy to market and promote our products begins with our well-diversified portfolio of distinctive brands across four product categories. Our portfolio can be deployed in multiple distribution channels, key travel corridors and geographies where our global reputation and awareness of our brands benefit us. Our geographic and distribution channel diversity allows us to engage local consumers across an array of developed and emerging markets by emphasizing products and services with local relevance, inclusiveness and appeal. This strategy is built around “Bringing the Best to Everyone We Touch.” Our founder, Mrs. Estée Lauder, formulated this unique marketing philosophy to provide “High-Touch” service and high-quality products as the foundation for a solid and loyal consumer base. Our “High-Touch” approach is demonstrated through our integrated consumer engagement models that leverage our product specialists and technology to provide the consumer with a distinct and truly personalized experience that can include personal consultations with beauty advisors, in person or online, who demonstrate and educate the consumer on product usage and application. As our business has grown and channel mix has evolved, we have further expanded our marketing philosophy and “High-Touch” execution to build both online and offline personalized consumer experiences through digital and physical demonstration, targeted digital media and tailored trial-to-loyalty pathways. We plan to continue to leverage our core strengths, including the quality of our products, our “High-Touch” consumer engagement and a diversified portfolio of brands, channels and geographies.
Our marketing strategies vary by brand, local market and distribution channel. We have a diverse portfolio of brands, and we employ different engagement models suited to each brand’s equity, distribution, product focus, understanding of the core consumer and local relevance. This enables us to elevate the consumer experience as we attract new consumers, create trial, build loyalty, drive consumer advocacy and address the transformation of consumer shopping behaviors. Hero products are at the core of our brand marketing strategies. They are the pillars of our brands and historically have provided strong results through high repeat sales and consumer loyalty. In addition to continuing to attract existing consumers, our hero products provide an opportunity for new consumers to be introduced to our desirable products, creating consumer traffic across all channels of distribution. We aim to further strengthen our hero products, and create new ones, through continuous review of our product portfolio and strategic innovation. Our marketing planning approach leverages local insights to optimize allocation of resources across different media outlets and retail touch points to resonate with our most discerning consumers most effectively. This includes strategically deploying our brands and tailoring product assortments and communications to fit local tastes and preferences in cities and neighborhoods, and also using these insights to develop new ways to innovate, engage consumers, build brand equity and sell products. Most of our creative marketing work is done by in-house teams, in collaboration with external resources, that design and produce the sales materials, social media strategies, advertisements and packaging for products in each brand. For a number of products, we create and deploy 360° integrated consumer engagement programs. We build brand equity and drive traffic to retail locations and to our own and authorized retailers’ websites including through digital and social media, billboards in cities and airports, and email. In addition, we seek editorial coverage for our brands and products in digital and social media and print, to drive influencer amplification.
We continue to focus on increasing our brand awareness and sales through our strategic emphasis on technology, by expanding our digital presence encompassing e-commerce, as well as digital, social media and influencer marketing. Our ongoing investments in new analytical capabilities enable us to create more personalized experiences across our distribution channels. We continue to innovate to better meet consumer online shopping preferences (e.g., how-to videos, ratings and reviews and mobile phone and tablet applications), support e-commerce businesses via digital and social marketing activities designed to build brand equity and “High-Touch” consumer engagement, in order to continue to offer better experiences and services and set the standard for prestige beauty shopping online. We also support our authorized retailers to strengthen their e-commerce businesses and drive sales of our brands on their websites. We have opportunities to expand our brand portfolio online around the world, and we continue to invest in omnichannel concepts in the United States, China and other markets to increase brand loyalty by better serving consumers as they shop across channels and travel corridors. We have dedicated resources to implement creative, coordinated, brand-enhancing strategies across all online activities to increase our direct access to consumers.
Promotional activities, in-store displays, and online navigation are designed to attract new consumers, build demand and loyalty and introduce existing consumers to other product offerings from the respective brands. Our marketing efforts also benefit from cooperative advertising programs with some retailers, some of which are supported by coordinated promotions, such as sampling programs, including purchase with purchase and gift with purchase. Sampling is a key promotional activity as the quality and perceived benefits of sample products are very effective inducements to purchases by new and existing consumers. Such activities attract consumers and keep existing consumers engaged. Our marketing and sales executives spend considerable time in the field meeting with consumers, retailers, beauty advisors and makeup artists at the points of sale to enable us to offer a seamless experience across channels of distribution.
As consumer behaviors, digital-first consumer journeys and e-commerce evolve, we adjust our direct-to-consumer business models and consumer engagement programs. These models and programs are designed to provide distinct one-to-one and one-to-many “High-Touch” omnichannel services and personalized experiences by leveraging technology and our talented beauty advisors, consultants, and makeup artists.
Information Technology
Information technology, including operational technology and our websites, is a key enabler of all aspects of our business, from research and development, product development, production and distribution, to marketing, sales and order processing, consumer experiences as well as finance and human resources. We continue to make strategic investments to align with our long-term strategy and to maintain and enhance our information technology and cybersecurity infrastructure. We are focused on optimizing adoption of such investments to maximize return on investment and realized value. The modernization and simplification of our technology ecosystem remains a key focus, as we increasingly leverage the benefits of the cloud.
We recognize technology presents opportunities for competitive advantage, and we continue to invest in new capabilities and the use of emerging technologies, including investments in artificial intelligence ("AI"), across various aspects of our business. This includes the strategic utilization of data to provide better visibility into consumer trends, to increase responsiveness in our product development.
Research and Development
We believe we are an industry leader in the development of new products. Our research and development group, which includes scientists, engineers, analysts, and other employees involved in product and packaging innovation, works closely with our marketing and product development teams and third-party suppliers to generate ideas, develop new products and product-line extensions, create new packaging concepts, and improve, redesign or reformulate existing products. In addition, these research and development personnel provide ongoing technical assistance and know-how to quality assurance and manufacturing personnel on a worldwide basis, to ensure consistent global standards for our products and to deliver environmentally responsible products that meet or exceed consumer expectations. The research and development group has research-based working relationships with several U.S. and international dermatology and medical institutions, research universities and educational facilities, which supplement internal capabilities. Members of the research and development group are also responsible for product safety, registration and regulatory compliance matters.
Our research and development costs totaled $360 million, $344 million and $307 million in fiscal 2024, 2023 and 2022, respectively, and are expensed as incurred. As of June 30, 2024, we had approximately 1,430 employees engaged in research and development activities. We maintain research and development programs at certain of our principal facilities and facilities dedicated to performing research and development, see Item 2. Properties.
Manufacturing, Warehousing and Raw Materials
We manufacture our products primarily in our own facilities in The Americas (United States and Canada); in Europe, the Middle East & Africa (Belgium, Switzerland and the United Kingdom); and in Asia/Pacific (Japan), and we also leverage global third-party manufacturing networks. We continue to evaluate our manufacturing facilities and processes and identify sourcing opportunities to improve innovation, increase efficiencies, minimize our impact on the environment, ensure supply sufficiency and reduce costs. Our plants are modern, and our manufacturing processes are substantially automated. In fiscal 2024, we completed the construction of our new manufacturing facility in Japan, near Tokyo. While we believe our manufacturing network of internal and external sites is sufficient to meet current and reasonably anticipated increased requirements, we continue to implement improvements in capacity, technology, and productivity and align our manufacturing with regional sales demand to be more agile. From time to time, demand changes may challenge our capacity for certain subcategories on a short-term basis, but we believe these changes will not impact our ability to meet our long-term strategic objectives.
We have established a flexible global distribution network that is designed to meet the changing demands of our customers while maintaining service levels. We are continuously evaluating and adjusting this physical distribution network, particularly as we work to anticipate and respond to shifts in channel and consumer preferences, as well as identifying opportunities to increase efficiencies and reduce costs. We have established regional and local distribution centers, including those maintained by third parties, strategically positioned throughout the world in order to facilitate efficient delivery of our products to our customers and consumers.
As discussed above, we continue to focus on social impact and sustainability across our operations. Focus areas include employee health and safety and minimizing our impact on the environment. This is achieved, in part, through investment in equipment while enhancing the work environment through safe practices and capabilities. We also engage in initiatives to improve our equipment and buildings to support and deliver our sustainability goals and reduce our impact on the environment. Environmental efforts include waste reduction, reducing industrial waste to landfill, investments in renewable energy sources and packaging that incorporates recyclable and recycled content.
The principal raw materials used in the manufacture of our products are essential oils, alcohols and specialty chemicals. We also purchase packaging components that are manufactured to our design specifications. Procurement of materials for all manufacturing facilities is generally made on a global basis through our Global Supplier Relations function. We also partner with an extensive network of third-party manufacturers that help us access innovation and capacity. We review our supplier base periodically with the specific objectives of improving quality, increasing innovation and speed-to-market, ensuring supply sufficiency and reducing costs. In addition, we focus on supply sourcing within the region of manufacture to allow for improved supply chain efficiencies, lead-time reduction and reduced emissions.
Some of our products rely on single-source or a limited number of suppliers; however, we believe we have a robust business continuity strategy, sophisticated capacity planning tools and strategic inventory buffer and multi-sourcing solutions. In the past, we have been able to obtain an adequate supply of essential raw materials and packaging components for virtually all materials used in the production of our products. From time to time, we may experience supply disruptions on a short-term basis, but we currently believe we have adequate resources of supply and our portfolio of suppliers has the resources and facilities to overcome most unforeseen interruptions of supply.
We are continually benchmarking the performance of our supply chain, and we augment our supply base and adjust our distribution networks and manufacturing plants and networks based upon the changing needs of the business. As we integrate acquired brands, we continually seek new ways to leverage our production and sourcing capabilities to improve our overall supply chain performance.
Competition
There is significant competition within each market where our skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care products are sold. Brand recognition, product quality and effectiveness, distribution channels, accessibility, and price point are some of the factors that impact consumers’ choices among competing products and brands. There continues to be increased interest and awareness from our customers and consumers in responsibly-sourced ingredients and environmentally sustainable products, and we believe we are well-positioned to benefit from the resulting change in consumer preferences due to our social impact and sustainability efforts. Marketing, merchandising, in-store and online experiences and demonstrations, and new product innovations also have an impact on consumers’ purchasing decisions. With our portfolio of diverse brands sold in a variety of channels, we are one of the world’s leading manufacturers, marketers and sellers of skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care products, and are a steward of luxury and prestige brands globally.
We compete against a number of global and local companies. Some of our competitors are large, well-known, multinational manufacturers and marketers of skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care products, most of which market and sell their products under multiple brand names. Our competitors include L’Oreal S.A.; Unilever; Procter & Gamble; LVMH Moët Hennessey Louis Vuitton; Chanel S.A.; Beiersdorf; Shiseido Company, Ltd.; Natura & Co. and Coty Inc. We also face competition from a number of independent brands, some of which are backed by private-equity investors, as well as some retailers that have their own beauty brands. Certain of our competitors also have ownership interests in retailers that are customers of ours.
Trademarks, Patents and Copyrights
We own the trademark rights used in connection with the manufacturing, marketing, distribution and sale of our products both in the United States and in the other principal countries where such products are sold, including Estée Lauder, Aramis, Clinique, Lab Series, Origins, M·A·C, Bobbi Brown, La Mer, Aveda, Jo Malone London, Bumble and bumble, Darphin, TOM FORD, Smashbox, Le Labo, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, GLAMGLOW, Kilian Paris, Too Faced, Dr.Jart+, The Ordinary and NIOD. We are the exclusive worldwide licensee for fragrances, cosmetics and/or related products for AERIN, BALMAIN, and Dr. Andrew Weil. For further discussion on license arrangements, including their duration, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies – Royalty Fees - License Arrangements. We protect our trademarks in the United States and significant markets worldwide. We consider the protection of our trademarks to be important to our business.
A number of our products incorporate patented, patent-pending or proprietary technology. In addition, several products and packaging for such products are covered by design patents or copyrights. While we consider these patents and copyrights, and the protection thereof, to be important, no single patent or copyright, or group of patents or copyrights, is considered material to the conduct of our business.
Human Capital
We strive to operate responsibly and to build a sustainable business based on uncompromising ethics, integrity, fairness, diversity and trust, consistent with our Company values. We view human capital management and the strength of our employees as integral to the long-term success and resilience of our business.
Our Board of Directors and its committees provide oversight to management on a range of human capital matters, including inclusion and diversity, health and safety, pay equity and compensation and benefits.
As of June 30, 2024 and 2023, we had approximately 62,000 employees worldwide, including demonstrators at points of sale who are employed by us. At June 30, 2024, approximately 71% of our global employees were full-time, approximately 16% were temporary and approximately 13% were part-time employees, with approximately 27% of our global employees located in the United States and approximately 73% located outside of the United States. We recognize the importance of female representation, and, as of June 30, 2024, approximately 80% of our employees were female and approximately 60% of our employees at the level of Vice President and above were female. We have no employees in the United States that are covered by a collective bargaining agreement. A limited number of employees outside of the United States are covered by works council agreements or other syndicate arrangements.
Our human capital management includes the following strategic areas:
Inclusion, Diversity and Equity
We continue to evolve our inclusion, diversity and equity strategy as we remain committed to supporting an inclusive and diverse workplace for all of our employees that better enables us to create innovative products and services as we continually strive to meet the evolving needs of our diverse global consumers. Our objective in creating an environment of inclusion, diversity and equity is to enhance our ability to attract and retain the best talent globally and promote a sense of belonging. We continuously encourage a culture of fairness, equal access to opportunities, including positions of leadership, and transparency in employment matters.
We are proud of our history of driving awareness and acceptance around the world and for standing up for the rights of individuals in the workplace and beyond. We remain resolute in our commitments to racial equity, with a focus on U.S. operations, including programs related to listening and learning, talent and opportunity, representation, suppliers and investing in change.
We are also committed to gender equity and equitable pay practices, having made significant progress in this respect, and also continue to prioritize cross-generational inclusion and diversity to help cultivate talent within our workforce.
Talent Recruitment, Retention, Learning and Development
Hiring, retaining and developing the best talent globally is key to our success. Our talent strategy is focused on employee engagement and investments in career development, succession planning and building leadership at various levels across the organization, as well as measuring, recognizing and rewarding business and leadership performance. Our investments include providing programs to ensure our employees are equipped with the right skillsets and knowledge, as well as opportunities to transfer to other functions or regions through short-term and long-term assignments. We believe these programs and opportunities create a pipeline of talent and leadership, necessary to drive and deliver on our long-term strategy in an ever-changing business environment.
To enhance our culture and measure our human capital efforts, we regularly engage with our employees and provide several mechanisms for our employees to provide their feedback. Key topics covered during employee engagement include inclusion, diversity and equity, learning and development, work-life structure, leadership effectiveness, and employee benefits and well-being. Based on our review of employee survey results, action plans are implemented to enhance employee satisfaction and to ensure alignment with our overall human capital strategy. One example is our Talent Marketplace, (called ELC Grow), which enables employees to explore personalized roles, projects, and networking opportunities that can empower employees to grow their skills and career.
To enhance innovation, productivity and our speed to market, we aim to foster an environment of curiosity and to create a workplace that encourages continuous learning and development. We offer training and development programs that are focused on strengthening leadership and professional skills at various stages of an employee’s career. Our programs are offered through in-person, online or virtual learning experiences.
Health and Safety
We are committed to providing a healthy and safe workplace for our employees. We establish and update safety policies and procedures, train employees on our safety guidelines and local requirements, and create a culture focused on well-being and safety through ongoing communication, awareness and engagement.
Employee Rewards
We offer competitive compensation and benefit packages to attract, motivate and retain world-class talent, and we are committed to fair and equitable pay across the organization.
To support the health and well-being of our employees, our competitive benefit packages may include, depending upon position and location, pension and post-retirement benefit plans, health and wellness benefits, flexible working arrangements, parental (maternal and paternal) leave and support programs, adoption assistance and education-related benefits.
Volunteerism and Community Engagement
We support volunteer efforts by our employees as our long-term success can benefit from the vitality of the communities where we have a presence. This is done through our ELC Good Works program, our global charitable and volunteerism program which allows eligible employees to create and participate in volunteer activities, with their cash donations matched by the Company and volunteer hours rewarded through additional cash donations by the Company.
Government Regulation
We and our products are subject to regulation by the Food and Drug Administration and the Federal Trade Commission in the United States, as well as by various other federal, state, local and international regulatory authorities and the regulatory authorities in the countries in which our products are produced or sold. Such laws and regulations relate to a wide range of matters including ingredients, manufacturing, labeling, packaging, marketing, advertising, transport and the sale, disposal and safety of our products, as well as environmental matters. We rely on legal and operational compliance programs, as well as in-house and outside counsel, to guide our businesses in complying with applicable laws and regulations.
Seasonality
Our results of operations in total, by geographic region and by product category, are subject to seasonal fluctuations, with net sales in the first half of the fiscal year typically being slightly higher than in the second half of the fiscal year. The higher net sales in the first half of the fiscal year are attributable to the increased levels of purchasing by consumers for special events and by retailers for holiday selling seasons. Fluctuations in net sales and operating income in total and by geographic region and product category in any fiscal quarter may be attributable to the level and scope of new product introductions or the particular retail calendars followed by our customers that are retailers, which may impact their order placement and receipt of goods. Additionally, gross margins and operating expenses are impacted on a quarter-by-quarter basis by holiday and key shopping moments, as well as variations in our launch calendar and the timing of promotions, including purchase with purchase and gift with purchase promotions.
Availability of Reports
We make available financial information, news releases and other information on our website: www.elcompanies.com. Our annual report on Form 10-K, quarterly reports on Form 10-Q, current reports on Form 8-K and other reports, as well as any amendments to these reports filed or furnished pursuant to Section 13(a) or 15(d) of the Securities Exchange Act of 1934, are available free of charge via the EDGAR database at www.sec.gov or our website, as soon as reasonably practicable after we file such reports and amendments with, or furnish them to, the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission.
Corporate Governance Guidelines and Code of Conduct
The Board of Directors has developed corporate governance practices to help it fulfill its responsibilities to stockholders in providing general direction and oversight of management. These practices are set forth in our Corporate Governance Guidelines. We also have a Code of Conduct (“Code”) applicable to all employees, officers and directors of the Company, including the Chief Executive Officer, the Chief Financial Officer and other senior financial officers. These documents and any waiver of a provision of the Code granted to any senior officer or director or any material amendment to the Code may be found in the “Investors” section of our website: www.elcompanies.com under the heading “Corporate Governance.” The charters for the Audit Committee, Compensation Committee and Nominating and ESG Committee may be found in the same location on our website.
Information about our Executive Officers*
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Name | | Age | | Position(s) Held |
Roberto Canevari | | 58 | | Executive Vice President – Global Supply Chain |
Stéphane de La Faverie | | 50 | | Executive Group President |
Fabrizio Freda | | 66 | | President, Chief Executive Officer and a Director |
Carl Haney | | 61 | | Executive Vice President, Global Research Product and Innovation Officer |
Jane Hertzmark Hudis | | 64 | | Executive Group President |
Peter Jueptner | | 61 | | President, International |
Jane Lauder | | 51 | | Executive Vice President, Enterprise Marketing and Chief Data Officer and a Director |
Leonard A. Lauder | | 91 | | Chairman Emeritus |
Ronald S. Lauder | | 80 | | Chairman of Clinique Laboratories, LLC and a Director |
William P. Lauder | | 64 | | Executive Chairman and a Director |
Michael O’Hare | | 56 | | Executive Vice President – Global Human Resources |
Tracey T. Travis | | 62 | | Executive Vice President and Chief Financial Officer |
Meridith Webster | | 48 | | Executive Vice President – Global Communications and Public Affairs |
*As of August 12, 2024. See below for information regarding expected changes.
All of the executive officers named above have been employees of the Company for more than five years, with the exception of Roberto Canevari and Meridith Webster. Mr. Canevari joined the Company in 2021; previously, from July 2019 to April 2021, he served as Executive Vice President, Supply Chain, Europe, at Unilever PLC, a consumer goods company, and from September 2012 to June 2019, he was Chief Supply Chain Officer at Burberry Group PLC, a global luxury brand. Ms. Webster joined the Company in 2021; previously from January 2021 to May 2021, she served as Chief of Staff, Domestic Policy Council, The White House; from 2018 to 2021, she was Chief Communications Officer, Vox Media, Inc., an independent media company; from 2017 to 2018, Ms. Webster was Managing Director for Public Affairs at Emerson Collective, an organization focused on a wide range of initiatives including education, immigration, climate, and cancer research and treatment; and from 2011 to 2017, she served at Bloomberg L.P., a provider of business and financial information and news, in a variety of roles, including the Global Head of Public Affairs.
As previously reported on August 7, 2024, Rashida La Lande, age 50, is expected to become Executive Vice President and General Counsel effective August 19, 2024. Ms. La Lande joins the Company from The Kraft Heinz Company, a manufacturer and marketer of food and beverage products, where she was for more than five years. Prior to that, she was a partner at the law firm of Gibson, Dunn & Crutcher.
As previously reported on July 23, 2024, Akhil Shrivastava, age 51, is expected to become Executive Vice President and Chief Financial Officer on November 1, 2024, succeeding Tracey T. Travis in that role. Mr. Shrivastava has been an employee of the Company for more than five years.
Information about our Board of Directors*
| | | | | | | | |
Name | | Principal Occupation or Employment |
Charlene Barshefsky | | Chair, Parkside Global Advisors, a consulting firm |
Angela Wei Dong | | Global Vice President and General Manager of Greater China, NIKE, Inc., a company that designs and develops, and markets and sells worldwide, athletic footwear, equipment, accessories and services |
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Fabrizio Freda | | President and Chief Executive Officer, The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. |
Paul J. Fribourg | | Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, Continental Grain Company, an international agribusiness and investment company |
Jennifer Hyman | | Co-Founder, Chief Executive Officer, and Chair, Rent the Runway, Inc., a company that enables women to subscribe, rent items, and shop resale from an unlimited closet of designer brands |
Gary M. Lauder | | Managing Director, Lauder Partners LLC, a venture capital firm |
Jane Lauder | | Executive Vice President, Enterprise Marketing and Chief Data Officer, The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. |
Ronald S. Lauder | | Chairman, Clinique Laboratories, LLC |
William P. Lauder | | Executive Chairman, The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. |
Arturo Nuñez | | Founder and Chief Executive Officer of AIE Creative, a branding and marketing firm |
Richard D. Parsons | | Chairman, Equity Alliance, a firm that invests in diverse, emerging venture capital fund managers, and co-founder and partner, Imagination Capital LLC, a venture capital firm |
Lynn Forester de Rothschild | | Chief Executive Officer and Chair E.L. Rothschild LLC, a private investment company |
Barry S. Sternlicht | | Chairman and Chief Executive Officer, Starwood Capital Group, a privately-held global investment firm focused on global real estate |
Jennifer Tejada | | Chief Executive Officer and Chair, PagerDuty, Inc., a digital operations management platform for businesses |
Richard F. Zannino | | Managing Director, CCMP Capital Advisors, LLC, a private equity firm |
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*As of August 12, 2024
Item 1A. Risk Factors.
There are risks associated with an investment in our securities. Please consider the following risks and all of the other information in this annual report on Form 10-K and in our subsequent filings with the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (“SEC”). Our business may also be adversely affected by risks and uncertainties not presently known to us or that we currently believe to be immaterial. If any of the events contemplated by the following discussion of risks should occur or other risks arise or develop, our business, which includes our prospects, financial condition and results of operations, the trading prices of our securities and our reputation, may be adversely affected.
Risks related to our Business and our Industry
The beauty business is highly competitive, and if we are unable to compete effectively our results will suffer.
We face vigorous competition from companies throughout the world, including multinational consumer product companies. Some competitors have greater resources than we do, others are newer companies (some backed by private-equity investors), and some are competing in distribution channels where we are less represented. In some cases, we may not be able to respond to changing business and economic conditions as quickly as our competitors. Competition in the beauty business is based on a variety of factors including pricing of products, innovation, perceived value, service to the consumer, promotional activities, advertising, special events, new product introductions, and e-commerce initiatives, including the ability to effectively leverage existing and emerging digital technologies, such as AI and data analytics, to gain more commercial insights and develop relevant marketing concepts and advertising to reach consumers. It is difficult for us to predict the timing and scale of our competitors’ actions in these areas.
Our ability to compete also depends on the continued strength of our brands, our ability to attract and retain key talent and other personnel, the efficiency of our manufacturing facilities and distribution network, and our ability to maintain and protect our intellectual property and those other rights used in our business. Our Company has a well-recognized and strong reputation that could be negatively impacted by social media and many other factors, including, given the legal, regulatory and ethical landscape around the use of AI, our ability to adapt and use the emerging technology in an effective and ethical manner. If our reputation is adversely affected, our ability to attract and retain customers, consumers and employees could be impacted. In addition, certain of our key retailers around the world market and sell competing brands or are owned or otherwise affiliated with companies that market and sell competing brands. Our inability to continue to compete effectively in key countries around the world (e.g., China) could have a material adverse effect on our business.
Our inability to anticipate and respond to market trends and changes in consumer preferences could adversely affect our financial results.
Our success depends on our ability to anticipate, gauge and react in a timely and cost-effective manner to changes in consumer preferences for skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care products, attitudes toward our industry and brands, as well as to where and how consumers shop. We must continually work to develop, manufacture and market new products, maintain and adapt our “High-Touch” services to existing and emerging distribution channels, maintain and enhance the recognition of our brands, achieve a favorable mix of products, successfully manage our inventories, and modernize and refine our approach as to how and where we market and sell our products. We recognize consumer preferences cannot be predicted with certainty and can change rapidly, driven by the use of digital and social media by consumers and the speed by which information and opinions are shared. If we are unable to anticipate and respond to challenges that we may face in the marketplace, trends in the market for our products and changing consumer demands and sentiment, our financial results will suffer. In addition, from time to time, sales growth or profitability may be concentrated in a relatively small number of our brands, channels or countries (e.g., China). If such a situation persists or one or more brands, channels or countries fails to perform as expected, there could be a material adverse effect on our business.
In certain key markets, such as the United States, we have seen a longer-term decline in retail traffic in our department store customers. Consolidation or liquidation in the retail trade, from these or other factors, may result in us becoming increasingly dependent on key retailers and could result in an increased risk related to the concentration of our customers. A severe, adverse impact on the business operations of our customers could have a corresponding material adverse effect on us. If one or more of our largest customers change their strategies (including pricing or promotional activities), enter bankruptcy (or similar proceedings) or if our relationship with any large customer is changed or terminated for any reason, there could be a material adverse effect on our business.
Our future success depends, in part, on our ability to achieve our long-term strategy.
Achieving our long-term strategy will require investment in new capabilities, brands, categories, distribution channels, supply chain facilities, technologies and emerging and more mature geographic markets (e.g., China). These investments may result in short-term costs without any current sales and, therefore, may be dilutive to our earnings. In addition, we may dispose of or discontinue select brands or streamline operations and incur costs, inclusive of restructuring and other charges, in doing so. Although we believe our strategy will lead to long-term growth in sales and profitability, we may not realize the anticipated benefits. The failure to realize benefits, which may be due to our inability to execute plans, global or local economic conditions, competition, changes in the beauty industry and the other risks described herein, could have a material adverse effect on our business.
Acquisitions and divestitures may expose us to additional risks.
We continuously review acquisition and strategic investment opportunities that would expand our current product offerings, our distribution channels, increase the size and geographic scope of our operations or otherwise offer growth and operating efficiency opportunities. In addition, we periodically review our brand portfolio, and our strategy includes potential divestitures of certain brands as we rationalize product offerings. There can be no assurance we will be able to identify these strategic actions and consummate such transactions on favorable terms.
Acquisitions including strategic investments or alliances entail numerous risks, which may include: (i) difficulties in integrating acquired operations or products, including the loss of key employees from, or customers, consumers or suppliers of, acquired businesses; (ii) diversion of management’s attention from our existing businesses; (iii) adverse effects on existing business relationships with suppliers, customers and consumers of ours or the companies in which we invest; (iv) adverse impacts of margin and product cost structures different from those of our current mix of business; (v) reputational risks associated with the activities of the businesses that we acquire or in which we invest; and (vi) risks of entering distribution channels, categories or markets in which we have limited or no prior experience.
If required, the financing for these transactions could result in an increase in our indebtedness, dilute the interests of our stockholders or both. The purchase price for some acquisitions may include additional amounts to be paid in cash in the future, a portion of which may be contingent on the achievement of certain future operating results of the acquired business. If the performance of any such acquired business exceeds such operating results, then we may incur additional charges and be required to pay additional amounts.
Completed acquisitions typically result in additional goodwill and/or an increase in other intangible assets on our balance sheet. We are required at least annually, or as facts and circumstances exist, to test goodwill and other intangible assets with indefinite lives to determine if impairment has occurred. We cannot accurately predict the amount and timing of any impairment of assets. Should the value of goodwill or other intangible assets become impaired, there could be a material adverse effect on our business.
Our failure to achieve the long-term plan for acquired businesses, as well as any other adverse consequences associated with our acquisition, divestiture and investment activities, could have a material adverse effect on our business.
Our business could be negatively impacted by social impact and sustainability matters.
There is an increased focus from certain investors, customers, consumers, regulators, employees, and other stakeholders concerning social impact and sustainability and other ESG matters. From time to time, we announce certain initiatives, including goals and commitments, regarding our focus areas, which include environmental and climate matters; packaging; sourcing; product formulation; social investments; and inclusion, diversity and equity. We could fail, or be perceived to fail, in our achievement of such initiatives, or in accurately reporting our progress on such initiatives. Such failures could be due to changes in our business (e.g., shifts in business among distribution channels or acquisitions). Moreover, the standards by which ESG efforts and related matters are measured are developing and evolving, and certain areas are subject to assumptions that could change over time. In addition, we could be criticized for the scope of our initiatives or goals or perceived as not acting responsibly in connection with these matters. Any such matters, or related ESG matters, could have a material adverse effect on our business.
A general economic downturn, or disruption in business conditions may affect our business including consumer purchases of discretionary items and/or the financial strength of our customers that are retailers, which could adversely affect our financial results.
The general level of consumer spending is affected by many factors, including general economic conditions, inflation, interest rates, energy costs, and consumer confidence generally, all of which are beyond our control. Consumer purchases of discretionary items tend to decline during recessionary periods, when disposable income is lower, and may impact sales of our products. A decline in consumer purchases of discretionary items also tends to impact our customers that are retailers. We generally extend credit to a retailer based on an evaluation of its financial condition, usually without requiring collateral. However, the financial difficulties of a retailer could cause us to curtail or eliminate business with that customer. We may also assume more credit risk relating to the receivables from that retailer. In the event of a retailer liquidation, we may incur additional costs if we choose to purchase the retailer’s inventory of our products to protect brand equity. Our inability to collect receivables from our largest customers or from a group of customers could have a material adverse effect on our business.
In addition, disruptions in local or global business conditions, for example, from events such as a pandemic or other health issues, geo-political or local conflicts, civil unrest, terrorist attacks, adverse weather conditions, climate changes or seismic events, can have a short-term and, sometimes, long-term impact on consumer spending.
Events that impact consumers’ willingness or ability to travel or purchase our products while traveling may impact our business, including travel retail, a significant contributor to our overall results, and our strategy to market and sell products to international travelers at their destinations.
A downturn in the economies of, or continuing recessions in, the countries where we sell our products or a disruption of business conditions in those countries could adversely affect consumer confidence, the financial strength of our retailers and our sales and profitability. We are also cautious of foreign currency movements, including their impact on tourism. Additionally, we continue to monitor the effects of the global macroeconomic environment; social, political and human rights issues; regulatory matters, including the imposition of tariffs or sanctions; geopolitical tensions; and global security issues.
Volatility in the financial markets and a related economic downturn in key markets or markets generally throughout the world could have a material adverse effect on our business. While we typically generate significant cash flows from our ongoing operations and have access to global credit markets through our various financing activities, credit markets may experience significant disruptions. Deterioration in global financial markets or an adverse change in our credit ratings could make future financing difficult or more expensive. If any financial institutions that are parties to our revolving credit facility or other financing arrangements, such as foreign exchange or interest rate hedging instruments, were to declare bankruptcy or become insolvent, they may be unable to perform under their agreements with us. This could leave us with reduced borrowing capacity or unhedged against certain foreign currency or interest rate exposures which could have a material adverse effect on our business.
Our success depends, in part, on the quality, efficacy and safety of our products.
Our success depends, in part, on the quality, efficacy and safety of our products. If our products are found to be defective or unsafe, our product claims are found to be deceptive, or our products otherwise fail to meet our consumers’ expectations, our relationships with customers or consumers could suffer, the appeal of our brands could be diminished, and we could lose sales and become subject to liability or claims, any of which could result in a material adverse effect on our business. In addition, counterfeit versions of some of our products may be sold by third parties, which may pose safety risks, may fail to meet consumers’ expectations, and may have a negative impact on our business.
Our success depends, in part, on our key personnel.
Our success depends, in part, on our ability to retain our key personnel, including our executive officers and senior management team. The unexpected loss of, or misconduct by, one or more of our key employees could adversely affect our business. Our success also depends, in part, on our continuing ability to identify, hire, train and retain personnel across all levels of our business. Competition for employees can be intense. We may not be able to attract, assimilate or retain necessary personnel in the future, and our failure to do so could have a material adverse effect on our business. This risk may be exacerbated by the stresses associated with the implementation of our strategic plan and other initiatives, as well as by market conditions.
We are subject to risks related to the global scope of our operations.
We operate on a global basis, with a substantial majority of our fiscal 2024 net sales and operating income generated outside the United States. We maintain offices in over 50 countries and have key operational facilities located inside and outside the United States that manufacture, warehouse or distribute goods for sale throughout the world. Our global operations are subject to many risks and uncertainties, including: (i) fluctuations in foreign currency exchange rates and the relative costs of operating in different places, which can affect our results of operations, the value of our foreign assets, the relative prices at which we and competitors sell products in the same markets, the cost of certain inventory and non-inventory items required in our operations, and the relative prices at which we sell our products in different markets; (ii) foreign or U.S. laws, regulations and policies, including restrictions on trade, immigration and travel, operations, and investments; currency exchange controls; restrictions on imports and exports, including license requirements; tariffs; sanctions; and taxes; (iii) lack of well-established or reliable legal and administrative systems in certain countries in which we operate; (iv) adverse weather conditions and natural disasters; (v) concentration of sales growth or profitability in one or more countries (e.g., China); and (vi) social, economic and geopolitical conditions, such as a pandemic, terrorist attack, war or other military action. These risks could have a material adverse effect on our business.
A disruption in our operations, including supply chain, could adversely affect our business.
As a company engaged in manufacturing and distribution on a global scale, we are subject to the risks inherent in such activities. Such risks include industrial accidents, environmental events, strikes and other labor disputes, capacity constraints, disruptions in ingredient, material or packaging supply or availability of natural resources (e.g. water), as well as global shortages, disruptions in supply chain or information technology, loss or impairment of key manufacturing or distribution sites or suppliers, product quality control, safety, increase in commodity prices and energy costs, licensing requirements and other regulatory issues, as well as natural disasters, outages due to fire, floods, power loss, telecommunications failures, break-ins and other events or external factors over which we have no control. If such an event were to occur, it could have a material adverse effect on our business.
We use a wide variety of direct and indirect suppliers of goods and services from around the world. Some of our products rely on a single or a limited number of suppliers. Changes in the financial or business condition of our suppliers could subject us to losses or adversely affect our ability to bring products to market. Further, the failure of our suppliers to deliver goods and services in sufficient quantities, in compliance with applicable standards, and in a timely manner could adversely affect our customer service levels and overall business. In addition, any increases in the costs of goods and services for our business may adversely affect our profit margins if we are unable to pass along any higher costs in the form of price increases or otherwise achieve cost efficiencies in our operations.
As we outsource functions, we become more dependent on the entities performing those functions.
As part of our long-term strategy, we are continually looking for opportunities to provide essential business services in a more cost-effective manner. In some cases, this requires the outsourcing of functions or parts of functions that can be performed more effectively by external service providers. These include certain information technology, supply chain, finance and human resource functions. The failure of one or more such providers to deliver the expected services, provide them on a timely basis or to provide them at the prices we expect may have a material adverse effect on our business. In addition, when we transition external service providers, we may experience challenges that could have a material adverse effect on our business.
Risks related to Legal and Regulatory Matters
Changes in laws, regulations and policies that affect our business could adversely affect our financial results.
Our business is subject to numerous laws, regulations and policies around the world. Changes in these laws, regulations and policies, including the interpretation or enforcement thereof, that affect our business could adversely affect our financial results. These changes include accounting standards, as well as laws and regulations relating to tax matters, trade (including sanctions), data privacy (e.g., General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR)), cybersecurity, anti-corruption, advertising, marketing, manufacturing, distribution, customs matters, product registration, ingredients, chemicals, packaging, selective distribution, and environmental or climate change matters.
Disputes and other legal or regulatory proceedings could adversely affect our financial results.
We are, and may in the future become, party to litigation, other disputes or regulatory proceedings across a wide range of matters, including ones relating to product liability matters (including asbestos-related claims), advertising, regulatory, employment, intellectual property, real estate, environmental, trade relations, securities, tax and privacy. In general, claims made by us or against us in litigation, disputes or other proceedings can be expensive and time consuming and could result in settlements, injunctions or damages that could significantly affect our business. It is not possible to predict the final resolution of the litigation, disputes or proceedings to which we currently are or may in the future become party to, and the impact of certain of these matters could have a material adverse effect on our business.
Government reviews, inquiries, investigations and actions could harm our business.
As we operate in various locations around the world, our operations are subject to governmental scrutiny and may be adversely impacted by the results of such scrutiny. The regulatory environment with regard to our business is evolving, and officials often exercise broad discretion in deciding how to interpret and apply applicable regulations. From time to time, we may receive formal and informal inquiries from various government regulatory authorities, as well as self-regulatory organizations, about our business and compliance with local laws, regulations or standards. Any determination that our operations or activities, or the activities of our employees, are not in compliance with existing laws, regulations or standards could negatively impact us in a number of ways, including the imposition of substantial fines, interruptions of business, loss of supplier, vendor or other third-party relationships, termination of necessary licenses and permits, or similar results, all of which could potentially harm our business. Regardless of the outcomes, these reviews, inquiries, investigations and actions could create negative publicity which could harm our business.
Risks related to Technology and Cybersecurity Matters
The compromise or interruption of, or damage to, our information technology (including our operational technology and websites) by cybersecurity incidents, data security breaches, other security problems, design defects or system failures could have a material negative impact on our business.
We rely on information technology that supports our business processes, including research and development, product development, production, distribution, marketing, sales, order processing, consumer experiences, human resource management, finance and internal and external communications throughout the world. We have e-commerce and other Internet websites in the United States and many other countries. If our information technology does not function properly, or is not adequately supported, it could adversely affect the Company’s business and operations.
We experience cybersecurity incidents of varying degrees on our information technology and, as a result, unauthorized parties have obtained in the past, and may obtain in the future, access to our systems and data (including unauthorized acquisition of such data). As we disclosed on July 18, 2023, and as noted in Part II, Item 7, Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations, an unauthorized third party gained access to some of our systems and data (including unauthorized acquisition of such data), which caused disruption to parts of our business operations and resulted in various expenses for investigation, remediation and other related matters.
Cybersecurity incidents at our Company have in the past resulted from, and may in the future result from, social engineering or impersonation of authorized users, and may also result from efforts to discover and exploit design flaws, bugs, security vulnerabilities or security weaknesses, intentional or unintentional acts by employees or other insiders with access privileges, intentional acts of vandalism or fraud by third parties and sabotage. In some instances, efforts to correct vulnerabilities or prevent incidents have in the past and may in the future reduce the functionality or performance of our information technology, which could negatively impact our business. Cybersecurity incidents can be caused by ransomware, distributed denial-of-service attacks, worms, and other malicious software programs or other attacks, including the covert introduction of malware to our information technology, and the use of techniques or processes that change frequently, may be disguised or difficult to detect, or are designed to remain dormant until a triggering event, and may continue undetected for an extended period of time. In addition, some of our suppliers, vendors, service providers, cloud solution providers and customers have in the past experienced, and may in the future experience, such incidents, which could in turn disrupt our business. The evolution and adoption of emerging technologies, such as AI, may intensify cybersecurity risks as techniques used in cyberattacks and cybersecurity incidents continue to evolve and develop. Insurance policies that may provide coverage with regard to such events may not cover any or all of the resulting financial losses.
As part of our normal business activities, we collect and store certain information that is confidential, proprietary or otherwise sensitive, including personal information of consumers, customers, suppliers, service providers and employees. We share some of this information with certain third parties who assist us with business matters. Moreover, the success of our operations depends upon the secure transmission of confidential, proprietary or otherwise sensitive data, including personal information, over networks. Any unauthorized access or data acquisition, despite security measures in place to protect such data, or other failure on the part of us or third parties to maintain the security of such data could result in business disruption, damage to our reputation, financial obligations to third parties, legal obligations, fines, penalties, regulatory proceedings and private litigation with potentially large costs, and also could result in deterioration in confidence in our Company and other competitive disadvantages, and thus could have a material adverse effect on our business.
In addition, a cybersecurity incident could require that we expend significant additional resources on remediation, restoration and enhancement of our information technology.
Risks related to our Securities and our Ownership Structure
The trading prices of our securities periodically may rise or fall based on the accuracy of predictions of our financial performance.
Our business planning process is designed to maximize our long-term strength, growth and profitability, not to achieve an earnings target in any particular fiscal quarter. We believe this longer-term focus is in the best interests of the Company and our stockholders. At the same time, however, we recognize it may be helpful to provide investors with guidance as to our expectations regarding certain aspects of our business. This could include forecasts of net sales, earnings per share and other financial metrics or projections. We assume no responsibility to provide or update guidance, and any longer-term guidance we may provide is based on goals we believe, at the time guidance is given, are reasonably attainable for growth and performance over a number of years. We historically have paid dividends on our common stock and repurchased shares of our Class A Common Stock; however, at times we have suspended the declaration of dividends and/or the repurchase of our Class A Common Stock. Going forward, at any time, we could stop, suspend or change the amounts of dividends or stop or suspend our stock repurchase program, and any such action could cause the market price of our stock to decline.
In all of our public statements when we make, or update, a forward-looking statement about our business, whether it be about net sales or earnings expectations or expectations regarding restructuring or other initiatives, or otherwise, we accompany such statements directly, or by reference to a public document, with a list of factors that could cause our actual results to differ materially from those we expect. Such a list is included, among other places, in our earnings press release and in our periodic filings with the SEC (e.g., in our reports on Form 10-K and Form 10-Q). These and other factors may make it difficult for us and for outside observers, such as research analysts, to predict what our earnings or other financial metrics, or business outcomes, will be in any given fiscal quarter or year.
Outside analysts and investors have the right to make their own predictions of our business for any future period. Outside analysts, however, have access to no more material information about our results or plans than any other public investor, and we do not endorse their predictions as to our future performance. Nor do we assume any responsibility to correct the predictions of outside analysts or others when they differ from our own internal expectations. If our actual results differ from those that outside analysts or others have been predicting, the market price of our securities could be affected. Investors who rely on the predictions of outside analysts or others when making investment decisions with respect to our securities do so at their own risk. We take no responsibility for any losses suffered as a result of such changes in the prices of our securities.
We are controlled by the Lauder family. As a result, the Lauder family has the ability to prevent or cause a change in control or approve, prevent or influence certain actions by us.
As of August 12, 2024, members of the Lauder family beneficially own, directly or indirectly, shares of the Company’s Class A Common Stock (with one vote per share) and Class B Common Stock (with 10 votes per share) having approximately 84% of the outstanding voting power of the Common Stock. In addition, four members of the Lauder family are on our Board of Directors (three of whom are executive officers). A fifth member of the Lauder family is an executive officer.
As a result of their stock ownership and positions at the Company, as well as our dual-class structure, the Lauder family has the ability to exercise significant control and influence over our business, including all matters requiring stockholder approval (e.g., the election of directors, amendments to the certificate of incorporation, and significant corporate transactions, such as a merger or other sale of our Company or its assets) for the foreseeable future. In addition, if significant stock indices decide to prohibit the inclusion of companies with dual-class stock structures, the price of our Class A Common Stock could be negatively impacted and could become more volatile.
We are a “controlled company” within the meaning of the New York Stock Exchange rules and, as a result, are relying on exemptions from certain corporate governance requirements that are designed to provide protection to stockholders of companies that are not “controlled companies.”
The Lauder family and their related entities own more than 50% of the total voting power of our common shares and, as a result, we are a “controlled company” under the New York Stock Exchange corporate governance standards. As a controlled company, we are exempt under the New York Stock Exchange standards from the obligation to comply with certain New York Stock Exchange corporate governance requirements, including the requirements that (1) a majority of our board of directors consists of independent directors; (2) we have a nominating committee that is composed entirely of independent directors with a written charter addressing the committee’s purpose and responsibilities; and (3) we have a compensation committee that is composed entirely of independent directors with a written charter addressing the committee’s purpose and responsibilities.
While we have voluntarily caused our Board of Directors to have a majority of independent directors and the written charters of our Nominating and ESG Committee and Compensation Committee to have the required provisions, we are not requiring our Nominating and ESG Committee and Compensation Committee to be comprised solely of independent directors. As a result of our use of the “controlled company” exemptions, investors will not have the same protection afforded to stockholders of companies that are subject to all of the New York Stock Exchange corporate governance requirements.
Item 1B. Unresolved Staff Comments.
None.
Item 1C. Cybersecurity.
Risk Management and Strategy
Our enterprise risk management framework considers cybersecurity risk in conjunction with our other Company risks as part of the overall risk assessment process. Our enterprise risk management team collaborates with the information security function, led by the Chief Information Officer (“CIO”) and Chief Information Security Officer (“CISO”), to gather their insights and risk mitigation strategies for managing cybersecurity threats. This integrated approach helps us assess, identify, and manage cybersecurity risks along with our other operational, financial and strategic risks, assisting in more effectively managing interdependencies among risks and enhancing risk mitigation strategies.
We have implemented a cybersecurity program including processes, technologies, and controls to assess, identify, and manage material risks from cybersecurity threats. This program includes implementing new technologies to proactively identify and monitor new vulnerabilities and reduce risk, conducting due diligence of third-party vendors’ information security programs, maintaining security policies and standards and regularly updating and testing our response planning and protocols. We maintain a formal information security training program for employees that includes training on matters such as phishing and email security best practices. Employees are also required to complete mandatory training on data privacy. We also have a third-party cybersecurity risk review process, including requiring key third-party service providers to complete initial and periodic security assessments, which prioritizes, monitors and assesses the risks associated with our third-party service provider interactions.
To evaluate and enhance our cybersecurity program, we periodically utilize third-party experts to undertake maturity assessments of the program.
We have also adopted a cybersecurity incident response plan that is designed to effectively identify, analyze, contain, remediate and eradicate, escalate, report, and appropriately document cybersecurity incidents. The plan also includes a materiality assessment framework that sets forth procedures and escalation protocols to support our assessment of whether a cybersecurity incident is material and subject to SEC reporting requirements. Such escalation protocols include the involvement of the CISO and other senior leaders across various functions, including finance, legal, privacy and global communications, as appropriate. We also maintain insurance coverage that, subject to its terms and conditions, is intended to address costs associated with certain aspects of cybersecurity incidents.
We have experienced cybersecurity incidents of varying degrees on our information technology; however, we have not identified any risks from cybersecurity threats, including as a result of any previous cybersecurity incidents, that have materially affected or are reasonably likely to materially affect our business strategy, results of operation or financial condition. However, we cannot eliminate all risks and the compromise or interruption of, or damage to, our information technology (including our operational technology and websites) by cybersecurity incidents could have a material negative impact on our business. For a more detailed discussion of the risks, see Risks related to Technology and Cybersecurity Matters within Item 1A. Risk Factors.
Governance
The Audit Committee of the Board of Directors oversees our information security program, which includes oversight of the cybersecurity program and management of cybersecurity risks. The Audit Committee receives at least semi-annual updates from the CISO, which typically address our cybersecurity strategy, initiatives, key security metrics, business response plans and the evolving cyber threat landscape and a detailed threat assessment relating to information technology risks.
At the management level, our cybersecurity program is led by the CISO, who is responsible for assessing and managing material risks from cybersecurity threats, including the prevention, mitigation, detection, and remediation of cybersecurity incidents. The CISO is informed about cybersecurity threats and incidents in accordance with the cybersecurity incident response plan as discussed above. The CISO, who reports to the CIO, regularly provides updates to the Chair of the Audit Committee and Chief Financial Officer. We also have protocols by which certain cybersecurity incidents are reported promptly to the Chair of the Audit Committee and Chief Financial Officer, as appropriate. The Company’s CISO has served in various cybersecurity roles for over 20 years, leading a variety of cybersecurity and risk capabilities and also holds multiple cybersecurity certifications such as Certified Information Systems Security Professional, Certified Information Systems Auditor, and Certified in Risk and Information Systems Control.
Item 2. Properties.
The following table sets forth our principal owned and leased manufacturing, assembly, research and development (“R&D”) and distribution facilities, some of which include contiguous office space, as well as our principal executive offices, as of August 12, 2024. The leases expire at various times through 2079 subject to certain renewal options.
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| The Americas | | Europe, the Middle East & Africa | | Asia/Pacific |
| Owned | | Leased | | Owned | | Leased | | Owned | | Leased |
Manufacturing | 2 | | | 2 | | | 4 | | | — | | | 1 | | | — | |
R&D | 1 | | | 4 | | | — | | | — | | | — | | | 1 | |
Distribution | — | | | 6 | | | 1 | | | 7 | | | — | | | 2 | |
Manufacturing and R&D | 1 | | | — | | | — | | | — | | | — | | | — | |
Manufacturing and Assembly | — | | | 3 | | | — | | | — | | | — | | | — | |
Distribution and Manufacturing | — | | | — | | | 1 | | | — | | | — | | | — | |
Principal Executive Offices | — | | | 1 | | | — | | | — | | | — | | | — | |
Total | 4 | | | 16 | | | 6 | | | 7 | | | 1 | | | 3 | |
Certain of our manufacturing facilities are utilized primarily for the production of products relating to particular product categories: five for makeup and skin care; three for makeup; three for skin care; two for skin care and fragrance; and one for skin care and hair care. As demand changes, certain of our manufacturing facilities can produce products from categories other than their primary category.
We consider our properties to be generally in good condition and believe our facilities are adequate for our operations and provide sufficient capacity to meet anticipated requirements.
Item 3. Legal Proceedings.
For a discussion of legal proceedings, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 17 – Commitments and Contingencies.
Item 4. Mine Safety Disclosures.
Not applicable.
PART II
Item 5. Market for Registrant’s Common Equity, Related Stockholder Matters and Issuer Purchases of Equity Securities.
Market for Registrant’s Common Equity and Related Stockholder Matters
Our Class A Common Stock is publicly traded on the New York Stock Exchange under the symbol “EL.”
On August 16, 2024, a dividend was declared in the amount of $.66 per share on our Class A and Class B Common Stock. The dividend is payable in cash on September 16, 2024 to stockholders of record at the close of business on August 30, 2024. We expect to continue the payment of cash dividends in the future, but there can be no assurance as to the amounts of any dividends declared or that the Board of Directors will continue to declare them.
As of August 12, 2024, there were 3,431 record holders of Class A Common Stock and 13 record holders of Class B Common Stock.
Share Repurchase Program
We are authorized by the Board of Directors to repurchase shares of our Class A Common Stock in the open market or in privately negotiated transactions, depending on market conditions and other factors. The following table provides information relating to our repurchase of Class A Common Stock during the referenced periods:
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
Period | | Total Number of Shares Purchased(1) | | Average Price Paid Per Share | | Total Number of Shares Purchased as Part of Publicly Announced Program | | Maximum Number of Shares that May Yet Be Purchased Under the Program(2) |
April 2024 | | 843 | | $ | 144.47 | | | — | | 25,073,242 |
May 2024 | | 1,601 | | 136.32 | | | — | | 25,073,242 |
June 2024 | | 3,117 | | 107.36 | | | — | | 25,073,242 |
| | 5,561 | | 121.32 | | | — | | |
| | | | | | | | |
(1)Represents shares that were repurchased by the Company to satisfy tax withholding obligations upon the payout of certain stock-based compensation arrangements.
(2)The Board of Directors has authorized the current repurchase program for up to 256.0 million shares. The total amount was last increased by the Board on October 31, 2018. Our repurchase program does not have an expiration date.
Beginning in December 2022, we suspended the repurchase of shares of our Class A Common Stock under our publicly announced program. We may resume such repurchases in the future.
Performance Graph
The following graph compares the cumulative five-year total stockholder return (stock price appreciation plus dividends) on the Company’s Class A Common Stock with the cumulative total return of the S&P 500 Index and the S&P 500 Consumer Staples Index. The returns are calculated by assuming an investment of $100 in the Class A Common Stock and in each index on June 30, 2019.
Item 6. [Reserved]
Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations.
RESULTS OF OPERATIONS
We manufacture, market and sell beauty products including those in the skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care categories, which are distributed in approximately 150 countries and territories. The following table is a comparative summary of operating results for fiscal 2024, 2023 and 2022 and reflects the basis of presentation described in Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 2 – Summary of Significant Accounting Policies and Note 24 – Segment Data and Related Information for all periods presented. Products, services, and royalty revenue from license arrangements that do not meet our definition of skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care have been included in the “other” category. During the fiscal 2024 second quarter, we identified and corrected misstatements of net sales and operating income between certain of our product categories in our Management's Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations for fiscal 2023 and fiscal 2022. See Note 24 – Segment Data and Related Information for additional details.
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | Year Ended June 30 |
(In millions) | | 2024 | | 2023 | | 2022 |
NET SALES | | | | | | |
By Product Category: | | | | | | |
Skin Care | | $ | 7,908 | | | $ | 8,249 | | | $ | 9,902 | |
Makeup | | 4,470 | | | 4,532 | | | 4,670 | |
Fragrance | | 2,487 | | | 2,451 | | | 2,491 | |
Hair Care | | 629 | | | 652 | | | 631 | |
Other | | 115 | | | 53 | | | 47 | |
| | 15,609 | | | 15,937 | | | 17,741 | |
Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | | (1) | | | (27) | | | (4) | |
Net sales | | $ | 15,608 | | | $ | 15,910 | | | $ | 17,737 | |
| | | | | | |
By Region(1): | | | | | | |
The Americas | | $ | 4,581 | | | $ | 4,518 | | | $ | 4,623 | |
Europe, the Middle East & Africa | | 6,140 | | | 6,225 | | | 7,681 | |
Asia/Pacific | | 4,888 | | | 5,194 | | | 5,437 | |
| | 15,609 | | | 15,937 | | | 17,741 | |
Returns associated with restructuring and other activities | | (1) | | | (27) | | | (4) | |
Net sales | | $ | 15,608 | | | $ | 15,910 | | | $ | 17,737 | |
| | | | | | |
OPERATING INCOME (LOSS) | | | | | | |
By Product Category: | | | | | | |
Skin Care | | $ | 735 | | | $ | 1,277 | | | $ | 2,776 | |
Makeup | | 93 | | | (21) | | | 126 | |
Fragrance | | 265 | | | 370 | | | 441 | |
Hair Care | | (52) | | | (36) | | | (28) | |
Other | | 53 | | | 4 | | | (1) | |
| | 1,094 | | | 1,594 | | | 3,314 | |
Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | | (124) | | | (85) | | | (144) | |
Operating income | | $ | 970 | | | $ | 1,509 | | | $ | 3,170 | |
| | | | | | |
By Region(1): | | | | | | |
The Americas | | $ | 34 | | | $ | (73) | | | $ | 1,159 | |
Europe, the Middle East & Africa | | 836 | | | 843 | | | 1,360 | |
Asia/Pacific | | 224 | | | 824 | | | 795 | |
| | 1,094 | | | 1,594 | | | 3,314 | |
Charges associated with restructuring and other activities | | (124) | | | (85) | | | (144) | |
Operating income | | $ | 970 | | | $ | 1,509 | | | $ | 3,170 | |
| | | | | | |
(1)The net sales from the Company’s travel retail business are included in the Europe, the Middle East & Africa region, with the exception of net sales of Dr.Jart+ in the travel retail channel that are reflected in Korea in the Asia/Pacific region. Operating income attributable to the travel retail sales included in Europe, the Middle East & Africa is included in that region and in The Americas.
The following table presents certain consolidated earnings data as a percentage of net sales:
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | Year Ended June 30 |
| | 2024 | | 2023 | | 2022 |
Net sales | | 100.0 | % | | 100.0 | % | | 100.0 | % |
Cost of sales | | 28.3 | | | 28.7 | | | 24.3 | |
Gross profit | | 71.7 | | | 71.3 | | | 75.7 | |
| | | | | | |
Operating expenses: | | | | | | |
Selling, general and administrative | | 61.6 | | | 60.2 | | | 55.7 | |
Restructuring and other charges | | 0.8 | | | 0.3 | | | 0.8 | |
Goodwill impairment | | 1.9 | | | — | | | — | |
Impairment of other intangible and long-lived assets | | 1.2 | | | 1.3 | | | 1.4 | |
Total operating expenses | | 65.4 | | | 61.8 | | | 57.9 | |
| | | | | | |
Operating income | | 6.2 | | | 9.5 | | | 17.9 | |
Interest expense | | 2.4 | | | 1.6 | | | 0.9 | |
Interest income and investment income, net | | 1.1 | | | 0.8 | | | 0.2 | |
Other components of net periodic benefit cost | | (0.1) | | | (0.1) | | | — | |
Other income, net | | — | | | — | | | — | |
| | | | | | |
Earnings before income taxes | | 4.9 | | | 8.8 | | | 17.1 | |
Provision for income taxes | | 2.3 | | | 2.4 | | | 3.5 | |
| | | | | | |
Net earnings | | 2.6 | | | 6.3 | | | 13.6 | |
Net earnings attributable to noncontrolling interests | | — | | | — | | | — | |
Net earnings attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest | | (0.1) | | | — | | | (0.1) | |
Net earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. | | 2.5 | % | | 6.3 | % | | 13.5 | % |
| | | | | | |
Not adjusted for differences caused by rounding | | | | | | |
Period-over-period changes in our net sales are generally attributable to the impacts from (i) pricing on our base portfolio, including changes in mix and those due to strategic pricing actions, (ii) volume, including changes driven by the impact of new product innovation, (iii) acquisitions and/or divestitures, and/or (iv) foreign currency translation. The percentages disclosed for these impacts are calculated on an individual basis.
The net sales impact from pricing consists of changes in list prices, due to strategic pricing actions, and mix shifts within and among product categories, geographic regions, brands and distribution channels. The prices at which we sell our products vary by brand, distribution channel (e.g., wholesale or direct-to-consumer) and may also vary by country. Our brands and products cover a broad array of pricing tiers. Prices of skin care and fragrance products are typically higher than makeup and hair care products.
New product innovation includes the introduction of new products, as well as changes related to existing products or where they are sold, including reformulations, regional expansion, repackaging and sets. A product is considered "new innovation" for the twelve-month period following the initial shipment date. Our innovation is often launched at different price points than existing products and value derived from innovation may vary from year to year. We continually introduce new products, support new and established products through advertising, merchandising and sampling and phase out existing products that no longer meet the needs of our consumers or our objectives. The economics of developing, producing, launching, supporting and discontinuing products impact our sales and operating performance each period. The introduction of new products often has some cannibalizing effect on sales of existing products, which we take into account in our business planning. The impact of new product introductions, including timing compared to introductions in prior periods, also affects our results.
Non-GAAP Financial Measures
We use certain non-GAAP financial measures, among other financial measures, to evaluate our operating performance, which represent the manner in which we conduct and view our business. Management believes that excluding certain items that are not comparable from period to period helps investors and others compare operating performance between periods. While we consider the non-GAAP measures useful in analyzing our results, they are not intended to replace, or act as a substitute for, any presentation included in the consolidated financial statements prepared in conformity with U.S. GAAP. See Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
We operate on a global basis, with the majority of our net sales generated outside the United States. Accordingly, fluctuations in foreign currency exchange rates can affect our results of operations. Therefore, we present certain net sales, operating results and diluted net earnings per common share information excluding the effect of foreign currency rate fluctuations to provide a framework for assessing the performance of our underlying business outside the United States. Constant currency information compares results between periods as if exchange rates had remained constant period-over-period. We calculate constant currency information by translating current-period results using monthly average foreign currency exchange rates and adjusting for the period-over-period impact of foreign currency cash flow hedging activities.
Overview
We are a leader in prestige beauty, which combines the repeat purchase and relative affordability of consumer goods with high quality products and services. Within prestige beauty, we are diversified by product category, geography, brand, product sub-category, channel, consumer segment and price point. We also leverage consumer analytics and insights by deploying our brands to grow sales and pursue profitable opportunities. These analytics and insights, combined with our creativity, inform our innovation to provide a broad, locally-relevant and inclusive range of prestige products with the aim of competing effectively for a greater share of a consumer's beauty routine.
•Our skin care net sales declined 4% in fiscal 2024, driven by declines from Estée Lauder, Clinique and Dr.Jart+. The decrease in net sales from Estée Lauder, Clinique and Dr.Jart+ was primarily driven by declines in mainland China and in our Asia travel retail business. In mainland China, net sales declined, primarily driven by ongoing softness in overall prestige beauty. Asia travel retail net sales declined, driven by a decline in the first half of fiscal 2024, primarily due to actions that we and our retailers took to reset inventory levels, in part in response to changes in government policies that began in the second half of fiscal 2023, as well as lower conversion. The net sales decrease in Asia travel retail for Estée Lauder was partially offset by the return to growth in the second half of fiscal 2024 primarily driven by a favorable comparison to the prior-year period due to the aforementioned changes in government policies as well as higher shipments. Also contributing to the net sales decrease from Dr.Jart+ was lower demand. These decreases were partially offset by higher net sales from La Mer and The Ordinary.
•Our makeup net sales decreased slightly in fiscal 2024, primarily driven by lower net sales from M·A·C, reflecting the unfavorable year-over-year impact resulting from the recognition of previously deferred revenue due to changes to the BACK 2 M·A·C take-back program during fiscal 2023, and to a lesser extent, TOM FORD and La Mer, partially offset by higher net sales from Clinique.
•Our fragrance net sales increased slightly in fiscal 2024, primarily driven by growth in Le Labo and Jo Malone London, partially offset by lower net sales from Estée Lauder and the unfavorable year-over-year impact of residual net sales in fiscal 2023 related to the terminations of certain of our designer fragrance licenses effective June 30, 2022.
•Our hair care net sales decreased 4% in fiscal 2024, driven by lower net sales from Aveda due to declines in North America, primarily reflecting softness in the salon channel and our direct-to-consumer business.
Our global distribution capability and operations allow us to focus on targeted expanded consumer reach wherever consumer demographics and trends are attractive. Our regional organizations, and the expertise of our people there, enable our brands to be more locally and culturally relevant in both product assortment and communications. We are evolving the way we connect with our consumers in stores, online and where they travel, including by expanding our digital and social media presence and the engagement of global and local influencers to amplify brand or product stories. We tailor implementation of our strategy by market to drive consumer engagement and embrace inclusion and cultural diversity. We strive to strengthen our presence in large, image-building core markets, while broadening our presence in emerging markets.
•Net sales in The Americas increased slightly in fiscal 2024, primarily driven by higher net sales in Mexico, Brazil and, to a lesser extent, the United States. The increase in net sales from Mexico and Brazil was primarily driven by growth in makeup, led by M·A·C, as well as growth in skin care and fragrance. Net sales in the United States increased slightly, primarily reflecting incremental royalty revenue associated with the fiscal 2023 fourth quarter acquisition of the TOM FORD brand and higher net sales in fragrance, led by our luxury fragrances, partially offset by a decline in makeup reflecting the unfavorable year-over-year impact resulting from the recognition of previously deferred revenue due to changes to the BACK 2 M·A·C take-back program in fiscal 2023, and to a lesser extent, decreases in hair care and skin care.
•Net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa decreased slightly in fiscal 2024, primarily reflecting lower net sales from our Asia travel retail business. Asia travel retail net sales declined, driven by a decline in the first half of fiscal 2024, primarily due to actions that we and our retailers took to reset inventory levels, in part in response to changes in government policies that began in the second half of fiscal 2023, as well as lower conversion. The net sales decrease in Asia travel retail was partially offset by the return to growth in the second half of fiscal 2024 primarily driven by a favorable comparison to the prior-year period due to the aforementioned changes in government policies as well as higher shipments. Partially offsetting the decrease in Europe, the Middle East & Africa were higher net sales in the United Kingdom, the Nordic countries and Germany.
•Net sales in Asia/Pacific decreased 6% in fiscal 2024, reflecting lower net sales from mainland China, and to a lesser extent Korea, partially offset by an increase in net sales in Hong Kong SAR. The decrease in net sales in mainland China was primarily driven by ongoing softness in overall prestige beauty. The lower net sales in Korea were primarily due to lower demand in the Dr.Jart+ travel retail business in Korea.
We approach distribution strategically by product category and location and seek to optimize distribution by matching our brands with appropriate opportunities while seeking to maintain high productivity per door. We are expanding our brands locations as we continue to seek high-growth opportunities to reach new consumers in online, freestanding stores, specialty-multi and travel retail, which we believe will be higher growth channels in the long term. We also focus on brand-building retail activities, technology-driven activations and omnichannel capabilities that enhance the shopping experience for consumers.
•As part of this strategy, we have built a leadership position in the global travel retail channel, that historically allowed us to leverage the robust and growing international passenger traffic. While the Asia travel retail business continued to be pressured in fiscal 2024, we believe that global travel retail is a long-term growth opportunity. Travel retail continues to be an important channel for brand building, particularly for those consumers who experience our brands for the first time while traveling. We continue to expand our strategic presence in travel retail across duty-free locations primarily in airports and downtown stores and increasingly through online retail. As examples, we engage consumers at the airport through pop-up activations in non-traditional commercial areas, and we tailor communications and curated assortments for targeted consumer groups. At the same time, travel retail is susceptible to a number of external factors, including fluctuations in currency exchange rates, changes in regulations or enforcement, and consumers’ willingness and ability to travel and spend.
•We continue to support e-commerce sites of our own, collaborate with our retailers on their e-commerce sites, and sell through select third-party online malls. We believe our success in the channel is a result of adapting our strategy to meet local market and cultural needs. We also continue to develop and implement omnichannel concepts, virtual try-on tools and compelling content to deliver an integrated consumer experience and better serve consumers as they shop across channels.
Outlook
We have experienced challenges within our business, including in our Asia travel retail business, and we expect volatility to continue. We have experienced, and are expecting to continue to experience, ongoing declines in overall prestige beauty due to current consumer sentiment in mainland China, which is also expected to impact Asia travel retail. In North America, we are experiencing ongoing competitive pressures along with a slowdown in prestige beauty growth. We also expect further business disruption in Israel and other parts of the Middle East. Net sales from Israel and the Middle East accounted for approximately 2% of consolidated net sales in each of fiscal 2023 and fiscal 2024. These challenges are collectively expected to impact net sales and profitability, including impacts to our effective tax rate from changes to our geographical mix of earnings.
We believe that the best way to increase long-term stockholder value is to provide superior products and services in the most efficient and effective manner while recognizing shifts in consumers’ behaviors and shopping practices. Accordingly, our long-term strategy has numerous initiatives across geographic regions, product categories, brands, channels of distribution and functions designed to grow our sales, provide cost efficiencies, leverage our strengths and make us more productive and profitable. We plan to build upon and leverage our history of outstanding creativity and innovation, high quality products and services, and engaging communications while investing for long-term sustainable growth.
We continue to monitor the effects of the global macro environment, including the risk of recession; currency volatility; inflationary pressures; supply chain challenges; social and political issues; competitive pressures; regulatory matters, including the imposition of tariffs and sanctions; geopolitical tensions; and global security issues. For example, the geopolitical tensions between the United States and China could have a material adverse effect on our business. We are also mindful of inflationary pressures on our cost base and are monitoring the impact on consumer preferences. A decline in net sales and profitability may adversely impact the goodwill and other intangible assets associated with our brands, as well as long-lived assets, potentially resulting in impairments.
In December 2021, the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (“OECD”) issued "Pillar Two" Global Anti-Base Erosion model rules for countries to enact into domestic law that would establish a 15% global minimum tax applied on a country-by-country basis for multinational companies. Certain countries have enacted or are expected to enact legislation incorporating the global minimum tax, which will be effective for us beginning in fiscal 2025. We are continuing to evaluate the potential impact of such newly enacted legislation and we anticipate an increase to our global effective tax rate as a result of these changes.
Cybersecurity Incident Disclosed in July 2023
As initially disclosed on July 18, 2023, we identified a cybersecurity incident in which an unauthorized third party gained access to some of our systems. Our investigation into the cybersecurity incident is complete. We determined that the unauthorized third party obtained some data from our systems, including consumer and employee data. We continue to take steps to enhance the security of our systems and coordinate with law enforcement authorities. We provided notification to governmental authorities in certain jurisdictions and also notified affected individuals where required by law.
The incident did not have a material impact on net sales and was $.07 dilutive to earnings per common share for the year ended June 30, 2024, after reflecting the benefit of insurance recoveries received in fiscal 2024.
Restructuring Program Component of the Profit Recovery and Growth Plan
As previously communicated on November 1, 2023, we launched a Profit Recovery Plan, now known as the Profit Recovery and Growth Plan ("PRGP"), to help progressively rebuild our profit margins in fiscal years 2025 and 2026.
The PRGP is focused on rebuilding stronger, more sustainable profitability, supporting sales growth acceleration and increasing speed and agility. The plan is designed to improve gross margin, lower the cost base and reduce overhead expenses, while increasing investments in key consumer-facing activities. Upon completion of this plan, we expect to have improved our gross margin and expense base to drive greater operating leverage for the future.
As a component of the PRGP, on February 5, 2024, we announced a two-year restructuring program. The restructuring program’s main focus includes the reorganization and rightsizing of certain areas of our business as well as simplification and acceleration of processes. We committed to this course of action on February 1, 2024.
In connection with the restructuring program, as of June 30, 2024, we estimate a net reduction in the range of approximately 1,800 to 3,000 positions globally, which is about 3-5% of our positions including temporary and part-time employees as of June 30, 2023. This reduction takes into account the elimination of some positions as well as retraining and redeployment of certain employees in select areas.
We plan to substantially complete specific initiatives under the restructuring program through fiscal 2026. We expect that the restructuring program will result in restructuring and other charges totaling between $500 million and $700 million, before taxes, consisting of employee-related costs, contract terminations, asset write-offs and other costs associated with implementing these initiatives.
Once fully implemented, we expect the restructuring program to yield annual target gross benefits of between $350 million and $500 million, before taxes, a portion of which is expected to be reinvested in consumer-facing activities. The net benefits of the PRGP, which includes the restructuring program, are expected to be between $1,100 million and $1,400 million.
Further information about the Restructuring Program Component of the Profit Recovery and Growth Plan, is described in Notes to Consolidated Financial Statements, Note 8 – Charges Associated with Restructuring and Other Activities herein.
Impairment Analysis
Based on our annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2024, we determined that the carrying value of the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit and trademark exceeded their estimated fair values. Given the lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions, the reporting unit has made a strategic shift in its operating plan to exit the travel retail channel. This revised strategy also includes increased direct investment in other areas of the business, including in China, to support the brand’s future growth. As a result of these changes in strategy, we made revisions to the internal forecasts relating to the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit which were finalized and approved in the fiscal 2024 fourth quarter, and reflected in the goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2024. These changes in circumstances were also indicators that the carrying amounts of its respective long-lived assets may not be recoverable. We concluded that the carrying value of the trademark intangible asset exceeded its estimated fair value, which was determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows, and recorded an impairment charge of $180 million. We then performed a recoverability analysis of the Dr.Jart+ long-lived asset group and, based on the estimated undiscounted cash flows of the asset group, concluded that the carrying amount of the long-lived assets were recoverable. After adjusting the carrying value of the trademark, we completed a quantitative impairment test for goodwill. As the carrying value of the reporting unit exceeded its estimated fair value, we recorded a goodwill impairment charge of $291 million. The estimated fair value of the reporting unit was based upon an equal weighting of the income and market approaches, utilizing estimated cash flows and a terminal value, discounted at a rate of return that reflects the relative risk of the cash flows, as well as valuation multiples derived from comparable publicly traded companies that are applied to operating performance of the reporting units. The significant assumptions used in these approaches include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal value, weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows, comparable market multiples for the reporting unit, and royalty rate for the trademark. The most significant unobservable input used to estimate the fair value of the reporting unit and trademark intangible asset was the weighted-average cost of capital, which was 10.5%.
A summary of the impairment charges for the twelve months ended June 30, 2024 and the remaining trademark and goodwill carrying values as of June 30, 2024 are as follows:
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | | | | | | Impairment Charges | | Carrying Value |
(In millions) | | | | | | Twelve Months Ended June 30, 2024 | | As of June 30, 2024 |
Reporting Unit | | Geographic Region | | | | | | Trademarks | | Goodwill | | Trademarks | | Goodwill |
Dr.Jart+ | | Asia/Pacific | | | | | | $ | 180 | | | $ | 291 | | | $ | 129 | | | $ | — | |
The impairment charges for the twelve months ended June 30, 2024 were reflected in the skin care product category.
Based on our annual goodwill impairment testing as of April 1, 2024, the estimated fair values of all reporting units, which were determined based on qualitative or quantitative assessments, with material goodwill were substantially in excess of their respective carrying values, with the exception of the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit, which we recorded an impairment charge of $291 million related to the Dr.Jart+ goodwill balance reducing the carrying value of goodwill to zero.
Based on our annual other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2024, the estimated fair value of the Dr.Jart+ trademark was equal to its carrying value subsequent to the impairment charges taken in the fiscal 2024 fourth quarter. The estimated fair value of the Too Faced trademark approximated its carrying value of $186 million and the estimated fair value of the TOM FORD trademark exceeded its carrying value of $2,578 million by 3%. For the TOM FORD trademark, if all other assumptions are held constant, a decrease of 4% in the estimated future net sales, inclusive of the terminal value, or an increase of 20 basis points in the weighted average cost of capital, would have caused the carrying value of the trademark to approximate its estimated fair value. The key assumptions used to determine the estimated fair value of the reporting units and their respective trademarks are primarily predicated on the success of future new product launches, the ability to secure strategic price increases, the achievement of distribution expansion plans, and the realization of cost reduction and other efficiency efforts. If such plans do not materialize, or if there are further challenges in the business environments where the reporting units operate, resulting changes in the key assumptions could negatively impact the estimated fair value of the reporting units and their respective trademarks. This could potentially lead to recognizing additional impairment charges in the future.
For additional information, see Item 8. Financial Statements and Supplementary Data – Note 6 – Goodwill and Other Intangible Assets.
Fiscal 2023 as Compared with Fiscal 2022
See Item 7. Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations – Results of Operations of the Company’s Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2023 for the fiscal 2023 to fiscal 2022 comparative discussion.
Fiscal 2024 as Compared with Fiscal 2023
NET SALES
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | Year Ended June 30 |
($ in millions) | | 2024 | | 2023 |
As Reported: | | | | |
Net sales | | $ | 15,608 | | | $ | 15,910 | |
$ Change from prior year | | (302) | | | (1,827) | |
% Change from prior year | | (2) | % | | (10) | % |
| | | | |
Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | | | | |
% Change from prior year in constant currency | | (1) | % | | (7) | % |
| | | | |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales decreased in fiscal 2024, primarily reflecting a decrease in skin care, and to a lesser extent, decreases in makeup and hair care, partially offset by an increase in fragrance. The decrease in skin care net sales was primarily driven by lower net sales from Estée Lauder, Clinique and Dr.Jart+, partially offset by higher net sales from La Mer and The Ordinary.
By region, reported net sales decreased in fiscal 2024, primarily reflecting lower net sales in Asia/Pacific, and to a lesser extent, lower net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa, partially offset by an increase in net sales in The Americas. The decrease in net sales in Asia/Pacific was primarily driven by lower net sales from mainland China, reflecting ongoing softness in overall prestige beauty, partially offset by higher net sales in Hong Kong SAR.
The fiscal 2024 reported net sales decrease was impacted by approximately $105 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales decreased 2% in fiscal 2024, driven by the decrease from volume of 8% and the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 1%. Partially offsetting these decreases was an increase from pricing of 7%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions and changes in mix.
Returns associated with restructuring and other activities are not allocated to our product categories or geographic regions because they are centrally directed and controlled, are not included in internal measures of product category or geographic region performance and result from activities that are deemed a Company-wide initiative to redesign, resize and reorganize select areas of the business. Accordingly, the following discussions of Net sales by Product Categories and Geographic Regions exclude the fiscal 2024 and fiscal 2023 impacts of returns associated with restructuring and other activities of approximately $1 million and $27 million, respectively.
Product Categories
Skin Care
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | Year Ended June 30 |
($ in millions) | | 2024 | | 2023 |
As Reported: | | | | |
Net sales | | $ | 7,908 | | | $ | 8,249 | |
$ Change from prior year | | (341) | | | (1,653) | |
% Change from prior year | | (4) | % | | (17) | % |
| | | | |
Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | | | | |
% Change from prior year in constant currency | | (3) | % | | (13) | % |
| | | | |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported skin care net sales decreased in fiscal 2024, reflecting lower net sales from Estée Lauder, Clinique and Dr.Jart+, combined, of approximately $514 million, primarily driven by declines in mainland China and in our Asia travel retail business. In mainland China, net sales declined, primarily driven by ongoing softness in overall prestige beauty. Asia travel retail net sales declined, driven by a decline in the first half of fiscal 2024, primarily due to actions that we and our retailers took to reset inventory levels, in part in response to changes in government policies that began in the second half of fiscal 2023, as well as lower conversion. The net sales decrease in Asia travel retail for Estée Lauder was partially offset by the return to growth in the second half of fiscal 2024 primarily driven by a favorable comparison to the prior-year period due to the aforementioned changes in government policies as well as higher shipments. Also contributing to the net sales decrease in Dr.Jart+ was lower demand.
Partially offsetting these decreases in skin care net sales for fiscal 2024 were higher net sales from La Mer and The Ordinary, combined, of approximately $267 million. Net sales from La Mer increased, primarily driven by the success of hero products. The increase in net sales from The Ordinary was driven by growth in every geographic region, reflecting new product launches, continued success of hero products, and targeted expanded consumer reach.
Skin care net sales were impacted by approximately $79 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported skin care net sales decreased 4% in fiscal 2024, driven by the decrease from volume of 11% and the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 1%. Partially offsetting these decreases was an increase from pricing of 8%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions and changes in mix.
Makeup
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | Year Ended June 30 |
($ in millions) | | 2024 | | 2023 |
As Reported: | | | | |
Net sales | | $ | 4,470 | | | $ | 4,532 | |
$ Change from prior year | | (62) | | | (138) | |
% Change from prior year | | (1) | % | | (3) | % |
| | | | |
Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | | | | |
% Change from prior year in constant currency | | (1) | % | | 1 | % |
| | | | |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported makeup net sales decreased slightly in fiscal 2024, reflecting lower net sales primarily from M·A·C, and to a lesser extent, TOM FORD and La Mer, combined, of approximately $127 million. Net sales from M·A·C decreased, primarily due to the unfavorable year-over-year impact resulting from the recognition of previously deferred revenue due to changes to the BACK 2 M·A·C take-back program in fiscal 2023 and the net impact of phasing out select products in preparation for new product launches in fiscal 2024. Net sales from TOM FORD decreased, primarily driven by lower net sales from the lip subcategory. The decrease in net sales from La Mer was primarily driven by a decline in our Asia travel retail business, reflecting actions that we and our retailers took to reset inventory levels, in part in response to changes in government policies in the second half of fiscal 2023, and lower conversion, as well as the impact of rationalizing product assortment within travel retail.
Partially offsetting the decrease in makeup net sales were higher net sales from Clinique, primarily driven by the success of hero products and targeted expanded consumer reach.
Makeup net sales were impacted by approximately $14 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported makeup net sales decreased 1% in fiscal 2024, driven by the decrease from volume of 6%, partially offset by an increase from pricing of 5%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions, partially offset by changes in mix.
Fragrance
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | Year Ended June 30 |
($ in millions) | | 2024 | | 2023 |
As Reported: | | | | |
Net sales | | $ | 2,487 | | | $ | 2,451 | |
$ Change from prior year | | 36 | | | (40) | |
% Change from prior year | | 1 | % | | (2) | % |
| | | | |
Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | | | | |
% Change from prior year in constant currency | | 2 | % | | 3 | % |
| | | | |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported fragrance net sales increased slightly in fiscal 2024, reflecting higher net sales from Le Labo and Jo Malone London, combined, of approximately $96 million. Net sales from Le Labo increased in every geographic region, led by Asia/Pacific and primarily reflected growth of hero products, including the successful City Exclusive collection, targeted expanded consumer reach, including the brand's launch in mainland China during the fiscal 2023 fourth quarter, and new product launches. Net sales from Jo Malone London increased, primarily driven by new product launches and the success of hero products.
Partially offsetting the increase in fragrance net sales was lower net sales from Estée Lauder, as well as the unfavorable year-over-year impact of residual net sales in fiscal 2023 related to the transition of licenses due to the termination of certain of our designer fragrance licenses effective June 30, 2022, combined, of approximately $83 million. The decrease in net sales from Estée Lauder was driven by softer retail sales during holiday and key shopping moments and pressure in our Asia travel retail business that led to lower shipments for replenishment orders compared to the prior year, as well as lower net sales from new product innovation.
Fragrance net sales were impacted by approximately $12 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported fragrance net sales increased 1% in fiscal 2024, driven by an increase from pricing of 6%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions and changes in mix. This increase was partially offset by the decrease from volume of 4%.
Hair Care
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | Year Ended June 30 |
($ in millions) | | 2024 | | 2023 |
As Reported: | | | | |
Net sales | | $ | 629 | | | $ | 652 | |
$ Change from prior year | | (23) | | | 21 | |
% Change from prior year | | (4) | % | | 3 | % |
| | | | |
Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | | | | |
% Change from prior year in constant currency | | (4) | % | | 6 | % |
| | | | |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported hair care net sales decreased in fiscal 2024, driven by lower net sales from Aveda, due to declines in North America, primarily reflecting softness in the salon channel and our direct-to-consumer business.
Reported hair care net sales decreased 4% in fiscal 2024, driven by the decrease from volume of 11%, partially offset by an increase from pricing of 7%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions and changes in mix.
Geographic Regions
We strategically time our new product launches by geographic market, which may account for differences in regional sales growth.
The Americas
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | Year Ended June 30 |
($ in millions) | | 2024 | | 2023 |
As Reported: | | | | |
Net sales | | $ | 4,581 | | | $ | 4,518 | |
$ Change from prior year | | 63 | | | (105) | |
% Change from prior year | | 1 | % | | (2) | % |
| | | | |
Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | | | | |
% Change from prior year in constant currency | | 1 | % | | (3) | % |
| | | | |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales in The Americas increased slightly in fiscal 2024, primarily reflecting higher net sales in Mexico, Brazil, and, to a lesser extent, the United States, combined, of approximately $57 million. The increase in net sales in Mexico and Brazil was primarily driven by growth in makeup, led by M·A·C, reflecting successful performance during key shopping moments and new product launches, as well as growth in skin care and fragrance. In the United States, net sales increased slightly, primarily driven by incremental royalty revenue associated with the fiscal 2023 fourth quarter acquisition of the TOM FORD brand and higher net sales in fragrance, led by our luxury fragrances, partially offset by a decline in makeup reflecting the unfavorable year-over-year impact resulting from the recognition of previously deferred revenue due to changes to the BACK 2 M·A·C take-back program in fiscal 2023, and to a lesser extent, decreases in hair care and skin care.
Reported net sales in The Americas included approximately $4 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales in The Americas increased 1% in fiscal 2024, driven by an increase from pricing of 2% due to the favorable impact of strategic pricing actions, partially offset by changes in mix, and the impact from the royalty revenue from the fiscal 2023 fourth quarter acquisition of the TOM FORD brand of 1%. These increases were partially offset by the decrease from volume of 2%.
Europe, the Middle East & Africa
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | Year Ended June 30 |
($ in millions) | | 2024 | | 2023 |
As Reported: | | | | |
Net sales | | $ | 6,140 | | | $ | 6,225 | |
$ Change from prior year | | (85) | | | (1,456) | |
% Change from prior year | | (1) | % | | (19) | % |
| | | | |
Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | | | | |
% Change from prior year in constant currency | | (2) | % | | (16) | % |
| | | | |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales decreased slightly in Europe, the Middle East & Africa in fiscal 2024, primarily reflecting lower net sales from our Asia travel retail business. Asia travel retail net sales declined, driven by a decline in the first half of fiscal 2024, primarily due to actions that we and our retailers took to reset inventory levels, in part in response to changes in government policies that began in the second half of fiscal 2023, as well as lower conversion. The net sales decrease in Asia travel retail was partially offset by the return to growth in the second half of fiscal 2024, primarily driven by a favorable comparison to the prior-year period due to the aforementioned changes in government policies as well as higher shipments.
Partially offsetting the decrease in Europe, the Middle East & Africa in fiscal 2024 was higher net sales in the United Kingdom, the Nordic countries and Germany, combined, of approximately $129 million. The increase in net sales from the United Kingdom was primarily driven by the favorable impact from foreign currency translation and growth from The Ordinary, reflecting targeted expanded consumer reach. The increase in net sales from the Nordic region was primarily driven by higher net sales across all major product categories, led by skin care. The increase in net sales from Germany was primarily driven by higher net sales in makeup.
Reported net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa included approximately $54 million of favorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales in Europe, the Middle East & Africa decreased 1% in fiscal 2024, driven by the decrease from volume of 11%. This decrease was partially offset by an increase from pricing of 9%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions and changes in mix, and the favorable impact from foreign currency translation of 1%.
Asia/Pacific
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
| | Year Ended June 30 |
($ in millions) | | 2024 | | 2023 |
As Reported: | | | | |
Net sales | | $ | 4,888 | | | $ | 5,194 | |
$ Change from prior year | | (306) | | | (243) | |
% Change from prior year | | (6) | % | | (4) | % |
| | | | |
Non-GAAP Financial Measure(1): | | | | |
% Change from prior year in constant currency | | (3) | % | | 4 | % |
| | | | |
(1)See “Reconciliations of Non-GAAP Financial Measures” beginning on page 46 for reconciliations between non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable U.S. GAAP measures.
Reported net sales decreased in Asia/Pacific in fiscal 2024, reflecting lower net sales from mainland China, and to a lesser extent Korea, combined, of approximately $401 million. The decrease in net sales from mainland China was primarily driven by ongoing softness in overall prestige beauty. The net sales decrease in Korea was led by the Dr.Jart+ travel retail business in Korea reflecting lower demand.
Partially offsetting the net sales decrease in Asia/Pacific in fiscal 2024 was an increase in net sales in Hong Kong SAR, primarily driven by the resumption of travel from mainland China to Hong Kong SAR due to the lifting of travel restrictions which began during the fiscal 2023 third quarter.
The net sales decrease in Asia/Pacific included approximately $155 million of unfavorable foreign currency translation.
Reported net sales in Asia/Pacific decreased 6% in fiscal 2024, driven by the decrease from volume of 11% and the unfavorable impact from foreign currency translation of 3%. Partially offsetting these decreases was an increase from pricing of 8%, due to the favorable impact from strategic pricing actions and changes in mix.
GROSS MARGIN
Gross margin in fiscal 2024 increased to 71.7% as compared with 71.3% in fiscal 2023.
| | | | | |
| Fiscal 2024 vs. Fiscal 2023 Favorable (Unfavorable) Basis Points |
As Reported: | |
Mix of business | 155 | |
Obsolescence charges | |